Topic

the tale of a ghosts in the electric
hi people

1: i need ur advice i have a 98 vvc mgf i've put 3 new batteries in her .
re did the alternator after he got burn few weeks ago
but still every few days or sometimes few days in a row the car wont start
without cables
i've checked a lot ,no draining from battery on tests in garage , ive tried not to lock it,and tried to take the sound system fuse out , ac always off when car is shut but i cant find the reason for this problem .
any one had the same problem knows how to fix it ?

**

2. when the car is idle sometimes it will rev up on itself up to 3k rpm , usually a quick tap on the throttle will stop it and bring the revs back around 900-1000 rpm
someone knows what can i do about it ?

THANKS IN ADVANCE
LOOKING TO HEAR FROM U PEOPLE BC I REALLY LIKE THIS CAR BUT THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS NUST BE FIXD BC IT MY DAILY DRIVER AND ITS RUINING MY DAY ALL THE TIME

Welcome aboard.

It will help us, help you if we know what model and year your car is.
The plastic throttle body on early Fs is often the culprit for high revs at idle, easily replaced with an alloy one, while your at it you may as well go for the 52mm throttle body over the standard 48mm size. No real increase in power but makes the car feel crisper and a bit more responsive.

Have you checked the simple things like corrosion on the battery connections and good grounds on the battery and starter motor?
My MGF is my daily driver and I only commute about 6km each way each day so I have the best and largest battery that would fit, an Optima Red Top.
No problems here but if the car isn't being used for a few days I will but a battery conditioner on it.
I agree with Cobber, the idle problem is probably one of 3 items, the throttle body, the throttle cable, or the throttle pedal.
Try disconnecting the cable at the throttle body and see if the butterfly easily closes all the way. If it sticks you will have an excuse to get a 52mm TB
While it is disconnected pull on the inner cable and see if the pedal moves freely. If it does your cable and pedal are OK. If the problem hasn't shown up check the adjustment at the TB end of the cable, it mat be a bit too tight. If it's none of the above it could be a leaky intake manifold or plenum gasket or a vacuum leak from a hose. Try spraying the gasket area with carb cleaner or WD40 while the engine is idling high and see if the idle drops.

I had a similar problem, turned out to be corrosion on the black battery cable where it bolts to the car, took it off, rubbed it all down with sandpaper and bingo. never had a problem since. I bought new batteries for the car thinking something was draining it or faulty batteries. But was the cable in the end.

Is the battery going flat(no power) or is it just that the starter clicks? If it just clicks but your lights etc. still work it will be the starter motor connections.

Is the alternator charging properly? There is a big fuse on the bulkhead between the engine bay and the boot, if this has gone your alternator won't charge the battery.

Going flat quickly probably means a current drain somewhere. Do you have a multimeter to check circuits?
There is a common fault where a relay stays open allowing current to drain. You can often fix this by temporarily disconnecting the earth lead on the battery. This resets the relay and then you can reconnect the battery.

I fitted a quick battery isolator switch like this. If the car is to be left for any time without being used, I disconnect the battery. Just a quick turn of the knob!
6v 12v 24v Battery Isolator Disconnect Cut Off Switch Green Wheel Buy It Now