Topic

Fitted a OE TF rear brace to the rear of my MGF.Simple cheap enough job.
The rear inspection cover you will need to drill two holes through for the braces to bolt up to.A TF inspection cover the holes will obviously be there.
On the TF there are tapped holes for the brace joining bracket to bolt to on body which are not there on the mgf.Simply drill through the rear boot rear of engine panel and put two nice stainless bolts through and bolt up with washers.

Any noticeable improvement?

Not taken it David out since that wet soaked track in Silverstone back in october, fitted these before and yes it does stiffen the rear body roll up a bit. A set of Gaz shocks will contribute and they are not that expensive but with 36 settings from hard to soft can be a bit of experimenting to get the right set up depending on driving road or track.
If staying to the idea of keeping it simple and cheap the front subframe braces off a tf and behind heater control brace also helps stiffen the body roll up.

This is going to sound dim but what do the other ends bolt to?

Robin

I'll add this to the guides list. Thanks.

For those wanting to track day their F.. Or who drive B roads enthusiastically.. The TF kit is a well worthwhile mod..

The under dash brace will need some mounts welding in (possible without taking dash out) and the front subframe cross brace too (but you'll need solid subframe mounts)

I've gone one step further.. With additional custom bracing for bonnet, boot, door openings (currently in progress) suspension top mount cross bracing and top mount strengthening..

VHS sell the 3 braces as a kit.. But they do come up second hand on E bay now n then

Don't forget the TF had revisions to the screen surround though to increase shell torsional stiffness.. As well as the 3 braces

I would be inclined to put some welds on the boot wall mounting bracket, or at least make up a full size backing plate to clamp the bracket to through the boot wall. I don't think that washers alone would give enough rigidity to the sheet metal.

Diesel Destroyer wrote: wrote:

Don't forget the TF had revisions to the screen surround though to increase shell torsional stiffness.. As well as the 3 braces

Been thinking about that and I s'pose you could inject the hollow sections of the windscreen frame with an expanding foam, which would add a little stiffness.

Apparently the TF had a screen surround change to eliminate scuttle shake.. Can't say I've noticed it in my F anyway..

Rich in Vancouver wrote: wrote:

I would be inclined to put some welds on the boot wall mounting bracket, or at least make up a full size backing plate to clamp the bracket to through the boot wall. I don't think that washers alone would give enough rigidity to the sheet metal.

I went for 6mm plate one side.. 6mm angle the other.. Boot braces added to stiffen rear fire wall.. Engine bay seam welded.. Top shock mounts seam welded and gussets and cross braces added..



Ta over kill

Rich in Vancouver wrote: wrote:

I would be inclined to put some welds on the boot wall mounting bracket, or at least make up a full size backing plate to clamp the bracket to through the boot wall. I don't think that washers alone would give enough rigidity to the sheet metal.

A backing plate is ideal but the bolts go through the double skin as where the the tf only bolts into one skin.

Diesel Destroyer wrote: wrote:

Rich in Vancouver wrote: wrote:

I would be inclined to put some welds on the boot wall mounting bracket, or at least make up a full size backing plate to clamp the bracket to through the boot wall. I don't think that washers alone would give enough rigidity to the sheet metal.

I went for 6mm plate one side.. 6mm angle the other.. Boot braces added to stiffen rear fire wall.. Engine bay seam welded.. Top shock mounts seam welded and gussets and cross braces added..

Ta over kill

Yes as explained in original post,keeping it simple and cheap.
Anybody serious about tracking go to a MGOC championship meet and have a peak outside the pits.15 inch small wheels with A048 TYRES,leda adjustable suspension polybushed a good start.Fully seam welded,Fibre glass bonnet boot hardtop with roll strengthening cage quick rack Oh dont forget a in date fire extinguisher.And a MSA race licence.
A CUP CAR is ideal but a bit pricey £7500 TO £9000 when they turn up a lot of them went to Australia.The cup cars was £30000 new from mg rover sport,i think they only built 30 a VHPD 190 engine with dry sump, straight cut gearbox with LSD.