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  • Bertl. Delete what you like. Makes no difference to me. Respect is earned. Steve posted drivel then attacked my character. I feel no need to apologise or change a single word. So I won't. I can enjoy the car just fine without the T bar and I think that will best suit us all.
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  • (not relevant content removed by moderator, rude language was used)
    Potentially harmful rubbish as waterless coolants can give the impression of a leaky system or worse, cause people to overtighten perfectly good clips onto old hoses that then fail.
    (not relevant content removed by moderator, rude language was used)
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  • Steve: this supised (sic) know all knows better, that's all.

    There is just as little pressure exerted in the cooling system if the liquid is not boiling. If boiling point were the criterion, we would cool the engine with oil (as of course we do). The cooling system is pressurised to prevent it from boiling so you don't need anything other than what has been in use since before you were born.

    Far better to have a coolant warning device to warn of a pressure cap failure as a pressure cap failure is likely to affect coolant circulation rather than use a coolant that may mask a fault.

    Waterless coolants are used in aero engines because the boiling point reduces with height above sea level and the pressure differential is correspondingly greater than for a land based vehicle. I reiterate that you don't need it in a K series engine whatever any well respected motor club might assert and if that upsets you, that's just tough.

    Properly operated and maintained ones don't go wrong and to assert that they will be improved by an expensive coolant is twaddle, fiction and bosh! The evidence is in the tens of millions of cars that have gone from manufacture through a long service life to scrapyard without ever needing it, as they do to this day.
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  • Higher boiling point of 180 and less pressure? Twaddle, fiction and bosh! The coolant never reaches boiling point in a sound cooling system. That is the function of the pressure cap which raises the boiling point. If it does not open, and it doesn't, then you don't need snake oil.
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  • minimax replied to the topic And double drat! in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Yes, Airportable. I came to the same conclusion based on thinking it out. Electronics engineers are gravely irked by misbehaving electrons but the diagnostic works like this: Sudden but intermittent loss of volts as monitored at the cabin voltmeter. Alternator voltage within limits:13.9 to 14.5, according to load. Volts there as soon as engine is running. Fault condition knocks everything out until key is turned fully back and then everything comes back on first position.

    Cable goes from sound battery to starter motor then to alternator and from there to the rest of the car so the break occurs before the starter motor and is a hard switch off not a dimming phenomenon. Break is occurring at the starter connection. that reduces the volts seen at the cabin as there is increased resistance in the cable/ starter/alternator connection.

    I reckon that must be it. Off with the K and N and in through the back rather than remove the hardtop and the engine cover.
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  • minimax thanked the user Airportable in the forum post, And double drat!
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  • minimax replied to the topic And double drat! in MGF/TF Pitstop
    It charged fully in fifteen minutes and was at 12.1 volts before charging so the problem lies elsewhere. Need to have a look at the starter connections next, I think. I need to do a load check on the battery to confirm that.
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  • Everything is still available with a bit of guile and research. Fit a monitor and wait until something breaks. The bath may be half full or half empty but the slope is not dramatic, suggesting that many cars will not suffer failure.
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  • minimax created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    The new Ford arrived from Northumberland this morning and was rejected within a minute due to undisclosed and very obvious accident repairs. The F then failed to proceed due to a flat battery. Alternator voltage is always good, battery is a nine month old Varta so I don't know why I suddenly have only 10.4 volts unless it has failed. I shall charge it tonight, check the quiescent current and measure the charging voltage at the terminals. The car had a 400 mile run just ten days ago so I am at a loss to know why. Infuriatingly, the tell tale on the battery shows green.
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  • There are plenty of cars running around without a PRT stat. Your money will be better spent on a low coolant level alarm. By all means give all the hoses a good squeeze and if you haven't stainless underpipes, fit them but if it ain't broke, disturbing it will probably cause it to need fixing!
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