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  • Goodwood replied to the topic Wet 2005 TF in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Most cars leak from the window cheaters. Putting some extra tubing in both the seals on the door side as well and windscreen sides helps but often still leaks some. As mentioned, no new 'main' seal is available (and I doubt it ever will be). Even if you could get a new main seal, the cheater itself is probably a bit stretched and will catch water (and changing that part is no joke). It was not a good design.

    Do you see drops of water on your inner door liner and speaker? If yes, then you have cheater issues. This is also made worse (in my experience) if your car is parked on a slope (facing downhill). It does not seem like much but the small ingress quickly adds up.

    The easiest solution (after you have attempted the above) is to put a half cover on car if it sitting outside for longer periods. For shorter periods, I have a couple of small (rectangular shaped) sponges that I place below the cheater on the inside to catch the drops (they rest on the 'ledge') so it does not drip down to the speaker and carpet.

    Not so sure about the snorkel. This was a problem on earlier cars but not later ones.

    Before pulling everything apart, why not put some paper on your floor the next time it is parked in the rain so you can see where the water is coming in from.

    Posting a few photos (of window gaps, water droplets after rain, convertible top condition, etc.) may also be helpful.

    You can probably pull back the carpet enough to dry it without having to remove the center console although the seats would need to be removed.
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  • I have a 2004 TF 135. I have retrofitted the dual horns as well as the plastic covers over the engine. The cover on the right hand side sort of contacts with the boot lid bolt and cracks a bit over time. Maybe they are not strictly necessary, but I like them.

    In regard to the door post finishers, what exactly is their purpose? Also, if you retrofit them, do you need to drill holes in the post for the rivets that fix them into place? I have seen these types of finishers on other convertibles, so I think they must be more than just cosmetic.

    Other 'deleted' items from Project Drive include the front bonnet light, rear boot mesh pocket, wheel arch finishers and owners manual case. There are probably a few more small items as well. I think they also cut some corners when it came to painting / rustproofing, what what I have read.
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  • Goodwood replied to the topic FUEL GAUGE in MGF/TF Pitstop
    The early instrument cluster confirms that it is a MK1 F.
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  • As promised, here are the photos of the door handle mounting. The plastic cutting / shaping could have been a bit cleaner (I am still learning) but overall I think it does not look too out of place. The screw does come out at an odd spot which requires some cutting / shaping of the plastic - but the screw will fit and not make contact with the door pull (with enough cutting / shaping). For now, it is holding very well. We will see how long it lasts.

    And Xpart was good to their word. The replacement handle arrived on Monday.
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  • I am a fan of the alloy knobs sold by MGMania. They clip on like the original plastic ones (no grub screw) and fit very well. The original plastic knobs really bring down the interior and certainly do not age well.

    Welcome to the forum!
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  • I agree. Do not use loctite with plastic parts. Period. I never did that before and never will again. It seems (from what I have subsequently read on the internet) that it can both degrade PVC plastic as well as expand as it dries. It is not intended for plastic. Now I know.

    This might explain the 'immediate' failure of handle #2. Although, as you can see from the photos, the loctite did not even have enough time to dry as it spilled over to the area around the base when it broke. Unsure how quickly it can degrade PVC but if it was the cause, it was almost immediate.

    I did not however use any loctite on handle #1 (see photos, no loctite), That handle lasted about a week or two.
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