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  • Goodwood replied to the topic $19000! in The T Bar
    The price is high but keep in mind that an MGF is a very rare car in the US, so not much in the way of comparables / alternates. Cars have to be 25+ years old in order to import, so you can only import 1997 models or older (well, soon 1998). There are no MGTFs at all. Canada is different due to the 15 year rule.
    Prices in the UK are very low due to large existing supply.
    Prices on the continent are also higher, albeit not as high as this. LHD cars can command higher prices because there are fewer of them. They also tend (generally) to be less rusted than the UK cars due to climate differences.
    There was an early MGF for auction recently on BAT (out of the US). It was bid to 5K but did not sell. There were few bids in part because the seller did not respond / participate to the auction, which raised the usual HG, etc. questions that were left unanswered. It would have probably received a few thousand more in bids had the vendor participated. I think that would represent sort of the market price in the US. But nowhere near 19K.

    https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-mg-mgf/
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  • Goodwood created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    The 'Comfort handling Pack' is available from MGOC for 750 GBP. The 'Soft ride kit' is available from Rimmers for 475. What is the difference between these 2 kits? Why is one significantly more expensive that the other? Is it due to the Bilsteins?
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  • Goodwood created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    For those of us that find this relevant...
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  • I have not tried adjusting the blue plastic shim. Perhaps the window is too cambered to the window seals, which makes a good fit but at the same time results in the retention assembly being pushed away slightly from the L bracket. When I acquired the car, these bolts were loose. I tightened them but did not check the adjustment. I did not know at the time that the blue shim served an adjustment purpose.

    The next time I feel like removing the door panel (yet again - how many times have you done this...) I will adjust the shim. Tightening the bolt on the retentions assembly always makes me a bit nervous. I know it is 7nm, but I am always worried of overtightening and breaking the glass (or leaving it too loose and having to open the door panel again at a later point).

    If this adjustment does not work, I will just add some washers to the L bracket so that it stands a bit further out.

    When I eventually get around to doing this, I will report back. Thanks everyone for your advice!
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  • Goodwood thanked the user Keymaster in the forum post, Rear window stop adjustment - does not make contact
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  • Goodwood created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I recently noticed that MGFs have what looks like a black plastic piece in the upper door post area above the door latch. This part is absent from MG TFs, Please see photo. What is the purpose of this black part? It seems to have been discontinued for MG TFs. Was it also a victim of 'Project Drive'?

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  • Sorry about my confusion regarding the appropriate terminology.

    David - I do not question your extensive knowledge and experience with MGF / TFs but I am just wondering why the workshop manual describes the 'L' bracket (under 'F') as 'these give glass height adjustment (this is also the glass stop)', if it does not make contact. Also, there is piece that sticks out of the glass retention assembly - is this not meant to make contact with the bracket? If not, what is it for? Why is the L bracket even there if it does make contact with anything?
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  • Hi David,

    Thank you for the link. I do not have a problem with that part. It is the 'L' shaped bracket that the stoppers are supposed to come into contact with. Also, it is not with the front stopper, it is at the rear of the door / rear stopper. The problem is the 'L' bracket that is supposed to come into contact with the stopper on the window lift clamp assembly is not making contact. Please see the image below. The rear stopper is part of the window lift clamp assembly

    My feeling is that the window runner (not sure if this is the correct term) - the part on which the window clamp assembly slides) becomes slightly distorted at the top over time due the force of the window being pushing against the seals over time. This eventually creates a slight gap between the stopper and the stop bracket. Fixing this distortion with the glass in situ is a delicate. Not sure if I am willing to try this out of fear of breaking the window. I also do not want to take the window assembly apart as I feel that I will struggle to align everything right when I put it all back together. The other alternative is to fabricate an 'L' bracket that is slightly longer on the top.

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  • Hi David,

    Thanks for your reply. This window stop is relatively new. I purchased it from MGMania last year as a spare when I was adjusting the window (based on what I had read here, I assumed the rubber parts would be worn out / gone). It is however the same dimension as the original part. I was actually thinking of combining 2 stoppers in order to make it stick out more, although an improved design would be a more elegant solution.

    Do you know where I can get this upgraded part?

    Jonathan
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  • Here are a couple of photos. The stud bracket / window stop was slightly out of alignment when the photo was taken but has since been straightened. As you can see, The 'stopper' on glass retention assembly is just shy of the stud bracket / window stop. I cannot figure out how to get the glass retention assembly closer to the stud bracket. The distance between them seems to be fixed in place by the channel to which they are both attached.

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