PipL

Yes all sorted very easily once I sat and thought about it.
Skool boy error, check for blown fuses 😂

Okies cheers

I will

Fluctuating speedo ( checked everything so must be the head ), like the silver dials and the lcd display plus I’m looking into rear illumination

Hi Badger, I’ve been looking at doing this, alongside fitting a mk2 cluster into my mk1 F.
A couple of things. What is the pot you’re trimming and what does that entail. Second is I see your connection on the back of the fuel gauge but what is the module and where does that white cased wire go to. I’m not usually thick but I’m having an off year 😂 plus what resistor are you using.
Thank you muchly

Hi people, apologies for waking you all up lol, but I have just found this thread, I was looking to do this to my mk1 F which you know is analogue.
does the back lit only light up the segments between the numbers and do you keep the light box to illuminate the clock faces ?
do I need to change the faces, i dont fancy the plasma look tbh but would like the segments, numbers and text to be back lit too.
Also do you still have to re calibrate everything after.

Tia

Sorry, I forgot to add it.
The thick brown wire with inline fuse was connected to the terminal in the fusebox as in your diagram.
I have another fog switch that is a latching one but alas no part numbers on it but looks the same as the other 590's

Hi, the inline fuse is on the thick brown wire going into the relay.
I have pulled the relay case off to look inside and as you can see its perfectly intact with no signs of burning which is a shame as it would have made lots of sense, ( a dead short ) but going through the coil, on testing it i get 65.7ohms through pins 85 & 86 which is across the coil then open circuit on pins 87 & 30 & then a dead short when the contacts closed. however, checking the resistance of the coil again, i get the same reading closed or open but as you close the relay i get an audible tone of continuity just for a nano second but doesnt show that on the LCD display.
Also is the switch supposed to be latching or not .

Hi, no it was only melted under the dash at the switch, the relay and connection to the fusebox, looking at the switch plug it is the red/black wire thats melted, at the relay the red/black wire again. plus the black/grey wire, the others are intact apart from melted pvc from the other wires.

Hi yes, my car is an F mk1 withe a mk 2 consol with mk2 switchs, the fog lights and the loom came from the same car and worked at the time of removal.
there was the two lamp plugs that fitted correctly, then a ground to the inner wing, next came the under dash wiring following Roverlikes diagram to the letter. I still have part of the loom as I wanted to keep the plugs to use again. the loom I assume was fitted by a dealer but there are no labels on it to say so but looked very professional make up.
It came with a 20a inline fuse ( still intact ) and the relay with markings, 20 200 100 12v 30a and the diagram showing contacts open.
It didnt have a switch but i had a couple of spares so was good, or so i thought as today i looked for the original one i used but must have binned it as it was a write off but looked at the others, I have 2 yug102590pmp but one shows the on the button a front fog light and the other a rear screen heater and 1 yug102570pmp showing a front fog on the button so im wondering if the body was wrong on the melted one as i would have just looked at the button.
I havent checked to see if the lamps worked still but will check now.
I cant remember if the switch plug was difficult to fit or not as it was last year.