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  • I have a 2002 TF with an intermittent CVT ratio clutch and the same non clearable PO500. Tried a different speed sensor from another box I have and no different, Having just found this thread I thought I would change out the GIU as I have another. Same result . PO500 will not clear.
    Tomorrow I will change over the CPU. I have PScanif I need to relearn the interface.
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  • Found it!
    It attaches to the engine block at the same point as the main earth strap that goes from the engine block to the body.
    The body section attaches below the big fuse that is under where the TF reinforcing bars attach at the rear of the engine compartment. They are C0565 and C0807
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  • Thanks for that and ultimately I may have to cut into the wiring near the sensors to create another earth but I can’t actually find this blessed wire that is supposed to be connected to the earth point shown.
    I would hope a simple clean would be enough if I can find where it attaches
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  • Harry created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I have a malfunction for the CVT speed sensor but changing the sensor hasn’t fixed the problem. Both the CVT speed sensor and the speedo speed transducer are supposed to earth to a point described as C0807 which is a 6 mm tinplate female located “rear of engine compartment”
    I have attached an image of the site but I can’t find it on the car. —- 2003 TF
    Can someone please give me a clearer idea of the exact location?

    Thanking you in advance
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  • Thanks for all that detailed info. I will follow up on the book as I think I know someone who has it. Prevention certainly seems better than cure. At least here in Australia rust is just not an issue. My underside looks “factree”
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  • Harry created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Just fitting cruise control to MGF Mk 2 when I noticed weld work around top of rear turret. Failure had continued beyond weld repair and was tearing away near the seam where the side panel joins the one above.
    The unit has replaced Hydragas with Aussie springs in a can and Gaz adjustable so forces are now in two directions not one. My repair may work but time will tell.
    I looked at the near side turret and there was no sign of failure.
    Closer inspection of the drivers side turret where the shocker mounts showed early signs of failure. The drivers side turret base had five spot welds with four in a rough square around the centre and one on the front side towards where the shocker mounts.
    The near side had eight spot welds. Six were neatly spaced in a rectangle along the centreline on the flat section and two were placed front and rear of the shocker mount hole very close to the hole itself.
    I think the reason for this is to weld the turret from the rear a right handed person can do a great job on the left turret but I’d crack handed on the right turret and this job is not done as well on that side.
    May not matter with Hydragas but could be a reason for replacement systems to fail.
    Would appreciate your thoughts
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  • Harry created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I heard from a source at the scrappies ( fellow pauper ) that Jag ashtrays fit MGF’s. 

    I have searched the main Jag scrappie here and the only thing I can find is the units in the XJS. They look really close but they don’t come out easily and the only wreck is a dirty burned shell. Too messy to attack without the prior knowledge that it going to work.

    Advice please
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  • Problem solved..

    The connections to the oil pressure gauge and the warning light were reversed during the engine changeover.

    As the oil heated a low value signal was sent to the warning lamp making it glow ina dull fashion. I caught on when the oil temp gauge didn’t work at all even when engine became properly warm
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  • Harry created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    My daughter has just purchased a 99 F which had just received an engine transplant (both distributor type) due to catastrophic HGF.
    About twenty minutes after taking delivery from enthusiast seller the oil pressure light came dimly on then came on stronger.
    Car towed home. 
    Sensor changed and same problem after about twenty minutes running around the block.
    Removed sensor, fitted oil pressure gauge and monitored oil pressure recording minute by minute stationary at idle. Pressure was fine starting around 78psi and falling to 21 psi as oil warmed up. This took about thirty minutes.
    Oil pressure light came on as dull and then increased in intensity after about twenty minutes running at idle. THE OIL WARNING SENSOR WIRE WAS NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING AT THIS POINT!
    The only thing like this I can find on the Forum is David Aiketgate's report about installing matching oil temp and pressure gauges where as a consequence of using the original pressure warning light wiring and splicing in a feed to his new gauge the original lamp glowed dimly. Obviously it was reading an earth through the new gauge. David removed the lamp as a solution. 
    Can anyone give me an idea where to look for this errant earth or do I just run a new wire direct to the lamp?
    Is it possible the engine loom changed? I haven't checked continuity between the switch and the lamp.
    Any thoughts greatly appreciated

    Brian


     
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  • Consequent to using Alfa dipstick replacement I had a problem with “leak” from the speed sensor unit located on the top of the gearbox. At first I thought my trans shaft seal was leaking but after much cleaning I tracked down the source to the speed sensor unit. Expensive piece of kit that. I tried new O rings in the unit to no avail. Every test run I has a leak. Then after one run I shone my super bright LED torch down at the very clean speed sensor and a bubble appeared! It was coming from a tiny crack in the top of the unit and nothing to do with the seals.
    Then it struck me. THIS BOX IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE PRESSURISED.

    I had kicked an own goal. The Alfa stick has a sealing O ring whereas the original dipstick has a convoluted path to atmospheric pressure. I solved the problem with a Dremel cut behind the O ring and all is well. Without the pressure the speed sender doesn’t leak

    Still a good cheap fix but make the above modification
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