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  • Thanks for all that detailed info. I will follow up on the book as I think I know someone who has it. Prevention certainly seems better than cure. At least here in Australia rust is just not an issue. My underside looks “factree”
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  • Harry created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Just fitting cruise control to MGF Mk 2 when I noticed weld work around top of rear turret. Failure had continued beyond weld repair and was tearing away near the seam where the side panel joins the one above.
    The unit has replaced Hydragas with Aussie springs in a can and Gaz adjustable so forces are now in two directions not one. My repair may work but time will tell.
    I looked at the near side turret and there was no sign of failure.
    Closer inspection of the drivers side turret where the shocker mounts showed early signs of failure. The drivers side turret base had five spot welds with four in a rough square around the centre and one on the front side towards where the shocker mounts.
    The near side had eight spot welds. Six were neatly spaced in a rectangle along the centreline on the flat section and two were placed front and rear of the shocker mount hole very close to the hole itself.
    I think the reason for this is to weld the turret from the rear a right handed person can do a great job on the left turret but I’d crack handed on the right turret and this job is not done as well on that side.
    May not matter with Hydragas but could be a reason for replacement systems to fail.
    Would appreciate your thoughts
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  • Harry created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I heard from a source at the scrappies ( fellow pauper ) that Jag ashtrays fit MGF’s. 

    I have searched the main Jag scrappie here and the only thing I can find is the units in the XJS. They look really close but they don’t come out easily and the only wreck is a dirty burned shell. Too messy to attack without the prior knowledge that it going to work.

    Advice please
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  • Problem solved..

    The connections to the oil pressure gauge and the warning light were reversed during the engine changeover.

    As the oil heated a low value signal was sent to the warning lamp making it glow ina dull fashion. I caught on when the oil temp gauge didn’t work at all even when engine became properly warm
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  • Harry created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    My daughter has just purchased a 99 F which had just received an engine transplant (both distributor type) due to catastrophic HGF.
    About twenty minutes after taking delivery from enthusiast seller the oil pressure light came dimly on then came on stronger.
    Car towed home. 
    Sensor changed and same problem after about twenty minutes running around the block.
    Removed sensor, fitted oil pressure gauge and monitored oil pressure recording minute by minute stationary at idle. Pressure was fine starting around 78psi and falling to 21 psi as oil warmed up. This took about thirty minutes.
    Oil pressure light came on as dull and then increased in intensity after about twenty minutes running at idle. THE OIL WARNING SENSOR WIRE WAS NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING AT THIS POINT!
    The only thing like this I can find on the Forum is David Aiketgate's report about installing matching oil temp and pressure gauges where as a consequence of using the original pressure warning light wiring and splicing in a feed to his new gauge the original lamp glowed dimly. Obviously it was reading an earth through the new gauge. David removed the lamp as a solution. 
    Can anyone give me an idea where to look for this errant earth or do I just run a new wire direct to the lamp?
    Is it possible the engine loom changed? I haven't checked continuity between the switch and the lamp.
    Any thoughts greatly appreciated

    Brian


     
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  • Consequent to using Alfa dipstick replacement I had a problem with “leak” from the speed sensor unit located on the top of the gearbox. At first I thought my trans shaft seal was leaking but after much cleaning I tracked down the source to the speed sensor unit. Expensive piece of kit that. I tried new O rings in the unit to no avail. Every test run I has a leak. Then after one run I shone my super bright LED torch down at the very clean speed sensor and a bubble appeared! It was coming from a tiny crack in the top of the unit and nothing to do with the seals.
    Then it struck me. THIS BOX IS NOT SUPPOSED TO BE PRESSURISED.

    I had kicked an own goal. The Alfa stick has a sealing O ring whereas the original dipstick has a convoluted path to atmospheric pressure. I solved the problem with a Dremel cut behind the O ring and all is well. Without the pressure the speed sender doesn’t leak

    Still a good cheap fix but make the above modification
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  • Wouldn’t Talkingcars idea work as a disguised Street drag car. I’ve noticed the front hubs on my Mk2 look ready to accept the Metro drive train (which we never got here in Oz) but if that is true simply attach a direct drive motor in the middle after removing the tinware that houses the spare, upgrade to a 150 Ah lithium ion battery and presto AWD drag car.
    The ICE motor pushes from the rear removing the need for the electric reduction gearbox usually necessary for an electric motor to start off and then bingo full electric power available for next 6 or 7 seconds with ICE boost.
    Battery recharges from ICE alternator and ready to go again. My caravan lithium will take 50 amps if half discharged so although some smart DC to DC charger will be necessary these are less than $A300.
    It would certainly be a surprise for a Z4
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