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This years little upgrade.. door lever cups .
I have an F ,but my door cards have the oval recesses like the TF.
Used the chrome oval surrounds off a Rover 75 from fleabay for about a tenner.
Bit of a fiddle & a terrifying task of butchering perfectly good existing door lever cups. See photos, which unfortunately seem to have loaded out of sequence, ( the rover 75 has different sweeping levers, which can be fitted , & imo are a considerable faff to fit verses this job, yielding not much extra bang for your buck imo.) .
The worst bit is using a dremmel type cutter on perfectly good part. Remove the door handle cup screw , then remove the cup . Go slowly & carefully with a dremmel cutter/ fine disk, and cut the lip as shown in 1st pic, bit of trial and error to get a good fit ,but you can see when you are close to a good fit.
You don't need Swiss watch accuracy either, just a steady hand...and follow the line, as shown ( l think ) in pic #3
You will also need to move any tabs off the chrome surround, also with a dremmel, and then glue / silicone/ sicaflex into position, careful not to over do the adhesive... wait until glue has set properly and refit to the door card , how good does that look ?.
Simples. !
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Hi ( hope ,as a relative newbie , I'm in the right place here ....)
Just replaced a duff heater blower resistor, which wasn't as hard as I thought (& as it aint stopped raining up north for a while, I've not checked the fuse yet . )
But ... Its not fixed the problem , anyone else had similar problems ?
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Here's a tidy boot light upgrade I've just finished. Bit of a 'workshop quality' bracket but perfectly serviceable, ( a cardboard template is recommended.)
( remember these are ' handed ' if you fit 2), & the folded bottom edge is optional, but reduces the risk to fingers from sharpish edges.
I used double sided tape to fix the light units, easier than creating a mm perfect slot in the bracket.
I used an alloy finger plate from a screwfix ( other shops available) , cost about £3 ... see pics for guide on size , use the hole in the boot frame to bolt to ( pic2).
Sketch in pic 1 show rough size guide and aperture might vary with different lights. Thin alloy is easy to work with a file ,drill, & a grinder.
Bit fiddly getting the bolt in without dropping it , but fingers can just hold on long enough to bolt up.
Buy yourself a pr of number plate lights (led) for about 8,10 quid. Reroute the cable through the boot lid ( bit fiddly) , to the boot space , leaving sufficient slack for closing . Zip tie any wire safely to hinge arm with other ducting. Attach / extend to the existing light terminals , insulate connections properly .
Fit 1 if you want , but 2 are really bright,. Front boot with leds' will be next project.
Led , obviously much brighter ,but the light is also nearer the stuff in the boot ,not 2ft in the air in the lid.
Verdict : couple of hours , several coffees, & decent effective result for buttons...hope the pics & description make sense.
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All painted , hybrid Mgf/Mg tf 😁.
# high line brake light out & back, in one piece ,
# go -faster exhaust finishers fitted,
& ...Brucie Bonus .... #the rear lights don't leak into the boot after refit post spray job. ...
Plus , a perfect paint match.....result !
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Looked hard for the logo ones... without success obviously .. they will look cool.
Seemed to have every motor ,except MG, heh no.
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TF boot lid ...All fitted
( minus the bits I don't want to be oversprayed ) but Ready for paint now .
'Sadly' it was the exact BRG colour , but with a couple of slight dings, (which whilst reflected in the bargain price ), means it requires a spray over.. heh no . - but eventually got the high line brake light removed in 1 piece, & booked on to the paint shop in a week.
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