markvrs

If it is the front radiator fan, it should go off with the ignition. If it is permanently running with ignition on then that is likely open circuit on the ECU water temp sensor. Either sensor has failed , become unplugged or has a broken wire.

If it is the engine bay fan it should time out after 8 minutes. But needs to be really hot back there to come on, we are talking a hot summers day and a high rev thrashing. If it is on normally, then failed eng bay temp sensor.

To answer the original question, MGRover said in their Tech Tip No TT00361/5/2002

MG F, MG TF Ignition On with Engine Running 5.8 amps. Ignition Off 19 to 21milli-amps

Hi notanumber, what did I do to upset you?

Hi Cobber, totally agree with you in general with Chinese stuff, I was only referring to Simple LED failings. I imported millions £ of goods from sister factories in China and my QA/QC engineers were frequent flyers. What we loved was that when a Chinese factory made a mistake they could replicate it on every single item, LOL. Could not knock them on consistency only on quality.

On the Chinese MG TF it is appalling how bad the few extra bits that are actually Chinese are that were not designed and overseen by MGRover engineers. The "Chinese" dashboard was actually a MGRover design and spec in pipeline before MGRover collapse, and not implemented due to financial constraints at the time.

Hi santapod, something was bugging me with your photo of new cluster. The MG TF does not have 2 EML warning lights. The new one at the top is not operational on SAIC UK MG TF. Just checked in owners manual and on my car, no light. Strange

Sorry, I do not buy the faulty "chinese" LED bit, as airportable said trillions are made, and this type of simple LED rarely fail once burnt in. The chances of having a rare faulty ABS module and an extremely rare LED failure on the monitoring system for that ABS module at the same time is a 'winning the lottery' type of odds. Being a very distrusting soul when it comes to previous owners, it's possible the ABS light was deleted to pass MOT , and while in there the EML was also sorted, as that can be another MOT failure light.

Have had that scenario on a BMW Z3 with a dodgy MOT. New ABS module would have been £1100. On a nothing to loose basis cut it open and re-soldered every joint I could and got lucky. Explained to PO what a fine chap I thought he was. ......

Glad you got it all sorted, and hope the EML does not start a new thread ......

The change to spring/dampers on MG TF was not a direct Project Drive initiative, but a causality from the end of production of the Rover 100. The MGF was developed from Metro chassis, with hydrogas spheres, but the Metro was the volume seller and the MGF was a niche sportscar. When the Metro went out of production the only car left using hydrogas was the MGF. The Allegro, Maxi, 18-22, Princess, Metro, Ambassador, Rover 100 all history, and with them Hydrogas.

The production numbers just for MGF to Dunlop were no longer viable at the Metro price point. So costs were going to rise considerably, or you went to Springs and Dampers like just about every one else.

With the mechanic and the OBD code pointing to the ECU water temp sender, as well as your results by disconnecting it that would be my next item to try. Intermittent faults are a pain in the butt, as you never know if your action has made a change or it has randomly changed. If you have to fire the parts cannon, this is one of the the cheapest items to try. They are £9.99 at DMGRS at the moment Pt No MEK000030.

Good luck

Airportable is correct, the fuel feed pipes are orange connectors and return pipe connectors are blue.

The fuel pump pressure is 3 bar (44psi) so disconnecting a pipe under pressure is too brave for me. I would crack the fuel filter nut with pump/ignition off to release pressure , tighten it back up, ignition on to pressurise, ignition off, crack fuel filter nut to see if it had re-pressurised immediately (3 seconds) for a normal start. Not a recommendation, just what I would do. Please be safe etc. I was about to say make sure engine is cold, but then realised it won't start--- slaps forehead and exits.

Yes that is the one, under the grill LH side as I said. Always worth a reset , just in case.