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  • I know that replacing both the gear cables resulted in me stripping the interior as you have done. I did it as a precaution.The car had done about 55K miles at that stage (it has now done 65K miles, 12 years later).

    Frankly, I would replace ALL the rubber hoses whilst you are at (budget permitting) including the valve and heater matrix (only if you can buy new).

    In my experience, cars (in fact all manufactured items) are designed to be built quickly and cheaply, not taken to bits. Audi is the same.

    It is a job that I never want to do again. Best of luck.
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  • Went for a run today. All perfect after several years of frustration including replacing many sensors and stopping me from using and enjoying the car. Idle steady at circa 875 rpm during and at the end of the run instead of finishing up at ca. 1500 rpm.

    I think that the problem was caused by one of the following:

    1. The throttle was not at 4 degrees off the vertical so the TPS was being reset at 4 degrees when the throttle was not physically at 4 degrees. Solution: Went back to basics and checked that physically the throttle was as close to 4 degrees at idle as possible using a piece of marked-up piece of paper. When the engine was hot, the stepper was showing 0 steps so I adjusted the idle stop screw so that the stepper was at 25 steps - this was 1/2 turn of the idle screw from where I had set it after the checking the throttle opening physically. I then reset the TPS on the basis the throttle was still close to 4 degrees off the vertical at idle.

    2.The hose going from the throttle body to the IACV. It was the wrong way around and was perhaps putting 'pressure' as the car become hot, perhaps not by much but enough on the TPS (which I thought was poor design) to create my problem. Solution: I turned the hose around so no fouling of the TPS. I suspect the hose had been turned around by me during one experimentation using a silicon hose a couple of years ago and this was the start of my problems. Hint: On the hose, one end is a marked line in white on the hose - this attaches to the IACV.

    Thanks for all the suggestions. Always appreciated. My take away is that the combination of Pscan and getting back to basics is a must to solve some problems on this car.
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  • I did find that the hose to the throttle from the IACV was back to frontĀ¦ it was rubbing up against the throttle position sensor until I turned the hose around but I doubt this will be the fix.

    The TPS is new.

    I have gone back to basics - I have adjusted the throttle idle valve to ensure that the physical throttle degree is ca. 4 degrees off the vertical. I have reset the TPS so it knows that the throttle is at 4 degrees at idle - at cold it is idling steadily at 1200rpm. Next week I will then test to see what happens on the idle RPM and stepper before, during and after a decent run, with PScan live data.

    One thing that I have noticed from the PScan live data is that when the idle rpm rises to 1500 after a decent run, the stepper has risen to circa 60 steps. My logic would say that the car thinks that the throttle is closed (0 degrees or closed), so to get extra air it is opening up the bypass....resulting in too much air and therefore higher idle revs??????. Would this, therefore, indicate that the problem is the TPS, although the TPS is new?

    Thanks for the other suggestions which I will follow up.
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  • pscan.uk wrote: Air leak or warped throttle body?


    Checked. It has the proper pre-tensioned clip that came originally with the car, not like a jubilee clip. No air leaks detected and checked routing of all air hoses. Stumped as to what the cause of the periodic high idling after 15 minutes of driving. All pscan readout (incl water temp) all within spec except when this issue hits and no. of steps rise to 60-70 steps (RPM ca. 1500) from the 21 steps (875 RPM).
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  • I thought I was there regarding a steady idle (875rpm, step 21) until I went for a spin today. After 15 minutes the steady idle I had was up to 1688rpm (albeit steady). Turn-off and then restarted - it adjusts back to circa 875rpm.

    I got home, and following the advice above to the letter, disconnected the IACV and then adjusted the screw (both ways) but the RPM stayed on circa 1050rpm. I just do not seem to be able to get it down to 875rpm. Any thoughts?

    On Pscan I get no error codes (other than the IACV because disconnected), I have already replaced the spark leads, coils, TPS, cam sensor, MAP (and the IACV). The throttle cable is as to should be (ie no pull on the cable when peddle not pressed).

    Any ideas, please?
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  • If you are looking for the pipes that go to/from the heater - PEH100850 and PEH100850UR.

    But the diagrams are not clear so I understand your question. The better diagrams have always been the Microfiche which the dealers used in the 90's. More accurate and complete.
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  • Fisher wrote: Speaking to a couple of mobile mechanics. It appears that the removal of the pipes is a real pain in the rear. Have been told that the T Bar needs to be remobed and the arm-rest down to the cubby etc. The centre consul needs to be removed and one said also the seats ( but I think that was more for removal comfort). Trying to remove them from the rear, again, one mechanic indicated that the subframe needs to be dropped!

    Add to this the rear pipe/cable closure plate is a pig to remove (rusty bolts - surprise!).

    So not an easy job "Well done" MG-Rover Designers.

    Robert


    Fully concur. The closure plate is a pain but can be done, with replacing the pipes, without a subframe drop. Mind you, I took a week to do it (ie I took my time). I remember that there was one particular bolt that was right behind the subframe. Got it our using a small spanner but took a couple of hours.
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  • One kind of wonders whether it was ever right....... As an aside, Pscan says that 25-27 is the correct setting. When you get below 25 steps Pscan says turn the screw anti-clockwise to increase the steps.

    Interestingly, there is relatively very little on the Web about what to adjust the stepper to outside the Pscan forum.
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  • Stepper running at 21 steps and RPM of 875 when water and oil fully hot. Appears to be rock steady but I have yet to go on a decent run to fully test. I marked the original position of the idle screw; I had to move it 1/2 turn clockwise (from the position when bought 15 years ago) to get it down from 55-60 steps to 21 steps which, to my mind, is a lot.
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