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  • julianfoulger replied to the topic Door handles in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Deepfat is spot on.

    I recently replaced both sides for new and sprayed using a can - due to the small size one can achieve a good finish.

    Expensive for what they are when buying new but the screw holes take a lot of stress; buying second-hand could be a good bet or it may be a bad one on the basis that the stressed screw holes are on their way out already.

    The screws are lightly torqued and from memory the max torque is 2.5 nm (but do check this - it is in the workshop manual)
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  • Good that you have some kind of equilibrium at 26 steps.

    The standard fuel regulator keeps the fuel pressure at a constant 3 bar (+-0.2bar). If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can check the pressure.

    One thing I have noticed with the F is that it can miss a beat in hot weather going up a mountain under load (changing up) but living at 500 meters +, does not totally surprise me. Recently we have had some high temps here (I do not know about where you live). The question is how often does it miss?

    One last thing to try if all else fails is to delete all the ECU adaptions using Pscan (it is one of the menu items) and then allow the ECU to readapt. Not sure whether this would make a difference as the ECU should constantly be readapting.
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  • Much of a muchness if you buy from Rimmers or Mike Satur or X-part.

    No idea about eBay sellers generally but I tend to avoid eBay for all car parts (especially second-hand unless it is a non-critical part) unless I know the brand.
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  • When I had a similar problem to you, there were NO fault codes, and most sensors, including the IACV and the TPS, were replaced including the leads - but no difference. It took several weeks for me to get the right idle screw adjustment to get the car in equilibrium.

    In the end, to ensure that the butterfly valve was shut and that I was adjusting from 0 degrees, I adjusted the idle crew so that it was clear the valve was shut. I then worked from there adjusting the screw in small increments until I hit 26 steps.

    I assume you have replaced the faulty coolant sensor (the one feeding the ECU). Replacing the IACV is an option on the basis you have cleaned it but not operating right (not the cheapest of sensors) and perhaps if you still have the old TPS put that back in and see if this makes the difference.

    I fully understand the frustration that you are going through. I spent a fortune on sensors and I ended up messing around with the idle screw and going on short test rides for several weeks before I got it right.

    I learned to follow the data/evidence but the lack of any fault data being during this period made the whole episode even more frustrating. The problem is that the fault data is based on whether the ECU is getting data from sensor X and but the ECU is not smart to check whether the data is accurate.
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  • Painted Plastics are always a problem they are usually painted with a flex aid additive and when so need to be painted separately.
    The paint batches are different and will fade at a different rate. And probably weren’t a great colour match to begin with.
    The problems that your gonna have with buying off the shelf touch up paint is a good colour match as well as having no flex additive.
    The paint will be harder than the plastic it’s on so chips and cracks are a definite likelihood.
    You need to go to a proper automotive paint store that supplies the panel shops and get them to mix it for you, take the car in and they can mix it to match, they will use the paint code as a starting point. Do explain that it is the plastic bits that you are painting and they will know if it needs a flex additive.
    A good paint mixer with a good eye will get you real close. And will be able to pack your paint in an aerosol can for you.
    Don’t wast your time and money at the parts and accessories supermarkets the 12 years olds they employ wouldn’t know their armpit from their arsehole without having a sniff……..even then they’d need a couple of goes to get it right!


    Is this flex aid additive only in the primer or in the colour /clear coats as well? I assume that for parts that do not flex (door handle surreounds), this flex aid is not required?
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  • Try this...
    See https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/base-idle-speed-setting-96-disco-95426/. Follow these instructions (but get the engine oil to 85 degrees + - ignore instruction 1.) which takes the reset back to basics. i.e. It is ensuring that only air through the butterfly valve is getting through (use clean rags to blank off the hose from plenum to IACV - there is obviously a special Land Rover hose for this back-to-basics reset [instruction 4]). Reconnect everything, restart the engine and then slowly adjust the idle valve in small steps, leaving 2 mins between each turn until you are at 26 steps/steady idle at 870 rpm or so.
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  • In the early days of my problem, I replaced nearly every sensor - made no noticeable difference and then with Pscan I plucked up courage and altered the idle screw and finally, my problem was solved.

    I doubt it is the CPS - it generally either works or does not (ie you cannot start the car).

    I do suggest replacing the TPS - it is relatively cheap, easy to replace and can be part of the problem if its butterfly degrees open reading is erratic/wrong. If you replace the TPS, remember to do a TPS reset.
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  • The stepper seems to be working based on what I see - the hesitancy could be due to over fuelling if too much air (too many steps and butterfly over 4 degrees open; if it is, you will smell it in the exhaust fumes. In my case there was hesitancy and then like a delayed turbo the engine would suddenly pick up and over rev. It was very noticeable when accelerating up hills from a slow start.
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  • 02 Sensor heater stays active. If not, you have a problem.

    You will find that it will take several drives and adjustments to get it spot on. The engine's ECU is trying to find an equilibrium. Do a TPS reset again when the engine is hot, go on a decent drive, check the readings again and readjust the no of steps to 26 as necessary. You do not want to go below 26 steps and the no of steps really needs to be a steady reading, whether it is 26 or say 32, when the oil is above 85 degrees.

    It takes time for this equilibrium to be found so be patient.

    One thing I did do for the hell of it was used Pscan to reset the ECU settings to factory - it is in the Pscan menu - i.e The ECU forgets all its previous adaptions and starts to readapt again - it should not be necessary as the ECU is constantly readapting.
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  • It is for a negative post. I had it fitted in my MGF but after a few months I took it out.

    1. Looked clumsy/Naff
    2. I got tired of resetting the radio and clock.

    I now leave the car on a CTEC charger using a recharge connection that sits behind my number plate.
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