trevtherev

I have to say thinking about what has been suggested it makes sense that the slave or release arm is sticking and not fully returning to its correct position. Hence, why last year it didn't seem to be a problem. If I can get under the car this weekend I will initially try some lubricant on the release arm around the casing point and see if that improves the situation, else it's a bit deeper look at the slave cylinder action.
I did enjoy the tractor talk it shed years off me especially when you reminded me of when your father gives you advice, well I think that was what it was ment to be.

It was a new clutch and pressure plate fitted along with a replacement gearbox, it also has the uprated clutch release arm. I do not get any slip. It just seems to only bite when the pedal is all but let out. As I said, I don't remember it being like this last year when I was able to get some miles on it. I had thought maybe I need to change seals in master and slave cylinders?

It's all but at the top of the travel.

I wonder if someone can point me in the right direction, I am looking to rebleed my clutch. I fitted a new clutch last year and quickly managed to get it in for the MOT. Sadly this year so many things have got in the way of enjoying the car, but finally I have managed to roll it out to play these last few weeks before once again MOT time. I seem to have a tremendous amount of travel before the clutch bites, at the very end of the pedal travel, and the embarrassment of sounding like a learner driver at best or a spitfire taking off is bugging me. I am thinking maybe some air is still in the system, and I have read about bleeding the master cylinder, before the slave. Am I right that you just loosed the pipe connection from the top of the master cylinder to pump out any air, then bleed it at the slave cylinder bleed nipple. I ask, as all I did previously was at the slave cylinder only.

I have used both this and the more conventional type and both worked well. Wouldn't say one was better than the other.

https://www.the-t-bar.com/forum/21-david-aiketgate-s-guides/90064-starter-motor-how-to-remove-replace
It can be a bit off-putting, but overall not too bad a job once you familiarise yourself t the layout.

MG TF - DOOR RUBBER END CAPS STOP SEALS
I don't think new ones are available but for what they are they tend to be expensive.