just by accident whilst releasing the tension of the lower damper bolt I found that the nasty squeak goes away when I bounce the rear of the car , the squeak returns if I torque up the bolt again.
I have ordered up new bolts to see what happens when the bolt is replaced and tightened
I am looking for any ideas on the following self inflicted problem.
I made a mistake of driving down a farm track , couldn't get far down and had to reverse back up to the main road. Unfortunately I didn't notice a large crater at the end of the farm tack where it joined the road and my rear offside wheel fell into it and made a loud noise, Since then I get a horrible creaking noise when I reverse while braking ( suspension dipping) . I jacked up the rear to investigate and removed the rear wheels and put another jack under the rear offside hub area and raised the suspension and it creaks quite loudly on dropping down .Tried the same on the rear n/s and it is creak free. The noise appears to come from above the lower suspension area.
any ideas welcome
What a magnificent bit of radio theory ( a treat for all of us radio hams) , god -we will be on to Standing Wave Ratio's in UHF transmission lines next.
Unfortunately I have a TF mk2 with SCU and Pektron fob (no aerial ) -the only way to alter this one is to dig inside the SCU and track down the UHF transmission chip and its thin film wave guide .
Hi all,
just wondered if any one out there can help with the following query..
the rear brake callipers slider pins on MGF/TF are the same as Rover 800 and the ancillary items are the same as well , but why is the profile of the slider pins different on the same calliper (upper/lower) see attachment .
As they are different in profile what is the correct positioning when fitting into the carrier
thanks for your interest , I have not replied since last time as I have been doing more investigations on another driver side door lock.
there are 2 points to add ... the main failure point with respect to the super locking is
1. the super lock motor is the failure area -it moves over time in its mount ( mechanical stress probably ) and disconnects the printed circuit wiring between the feedwire and its own solder points ( this causes the high resistance reading across the motor )
I agree that the main motor itself very robust . .
Any failure in the main motor area seems to be associated with the lower microswitch in the 3 way bank , the head ( tip) of the microswitch seems to get flipped off over time and causes a permanent open in that switch (no feedback to the SCU or BCU in earlier models.
The long lower plastic arm operates the bottom microswitch and is moved by the action of the door lock motor being closed or opened by the fob ( takes about 3 amps to operate this motor by the way but it is a beefy motor unlike the superlock motor)
looking for a solution to this problem ( i am sure that there was someone on this forum that knew where the microswitches could be obtained from)
