g4wam

I agree with David that the HGF scenario is as he describes for an F or a TF , interestingly the gaps between HGF failure's on early MGF,s were about 20000miles .On early TF,s the period was longer around 50000 miles, t he good news is that the problem is getting rarer as newer style components are fitted. If the car is driven after a cooling system event and all the coolant has been lost there is probably no other outcome other than HGF. The coolant tank tops do let go on there own and clouds of steam exit and if it happens when stationary then the situation can be recovered , but driving on only ends in tears.
Regarding repairs to K series HGF or even just cam belt changes I only trust the ex ROVER mobile guys , they have a vested interest in getting the job done properly.
The above comments are purely mine
regrds

Mike

if you have a TF the parts are RGD000620 and RGD000630
can you tell me why you are replacing this bush if you dont mind ?
mike

thanks for taking the time to reply, you seem to have replaced the damper top bushes according to that part number.
when you took off your front coil overs to service them did you happen to notice if there was any play in the bottom bush( ball joint) on each one ?
I had one replaced on the offending rear o/s and it is completely stiff ,no play at all .
I am beginning to wonder if the creak is actually in the rear upper arm bush , the part that the damper fits in to ( the long bolt fixing)
thanks
Mike

Hi there,
this query relates to MGTF coil over units and in particular the bottom bushes.
I removed both my rear ones for a refurb and to locate a creak in the rear o/s.
The units are very easy to strip down ( don't need coil compressors) in case anyone is interested.
What I found is that the bottom bushes behave differently. That is one is easy to move by finger pressure and the other completely stiff.
Does anyone know what a good /new bottom suspension bush should feel like when it is fitted to the damper ?

thanks
Mike

TNJK, I know it was a long time ago but did you get to find out what was causing your creak issue,I have a similar think on my rear O/S .
thanks
Mike

I have noted all your text and can add that the boot lamp works ,I think that I will need to remove the cluster to test the indicator.
thanks
Mike

well done, I will make a note of your procedure

Mike

Hi there,
failing on emissions is usually an MGF problem rather than a MGTF one since the TF has upstream and down stream O2 sensors.

But there are 2 possibilities
1. the cat is not genuine-this can make a difference, a used genuine one is a better choice.

2. this problem came up recently in the MG Owners mag --Charcoal canister faulty due to failed internal switch . This will fail an MOT on emissions

The switches aren't avialble separately but the whole canister is -the only way to obtain the switch part is to get a secondhanded canister.



Mike