Ah, aircon. That's the difference. No aircon is a straight loop.
Thanks for letting me know. I would have thought mine had fallen off!
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AUTF02, was it the timing belt that you changed and found the tensioner or the alternator belt? I thought there was no tensioner on the alternator belt?
We sprayed the alternator belt with the engine running and that stopped the rattling.
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As an update, the tinkling continued.
Looking around, the aux belt seems to be the problem (as Cobber mentioned).
It was not slipping but vibrating until warmed up. A squirt of WD40 as a test stopped it immediately.
A new aux belt is on order.
Thanks gents & Cobber.
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Maxthedog, I bought my TF from a well-known dealer. WHen I drive it home, the MIL came on.
The dealer sent me a replacement ECU which had the MIL light switched off. (Symptom solved).
The dealer had installed a new CAT.
Recently, I had the Kmaps remap done by Mark (a brilliant improvement to driving and everything about the car).
Mark was the fuel and emissions engineer at MG-Rover when these cars were being built. He wrote the book.
(And a nice bloke too).
Mark explained that aftermarket CATS will cause the MIL to light and it is related to the design of the CAT.
The CAT will pass an MOT (although make sure you take it for test when fully warm or hot).but will not extinguish the MIL.
It may be possible to buy an NOS CAT from somewhere (maybe Rimmers) but at many hundred of £s compated to less than £200 for the aftermarket.
It looks like switching off the MIL in the ECU is the only option with an aftermarket CAT.
I think it is related to the distance between in and out O2 sensors on aftermarket CATs but I cannot confirm it.
I do recommend calling Mark to answer all your questions.
I believe the above to be correct but welcome learning more if it is not. And good luck.
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I wrote it but have no idea how it could be attributed to anyone else.
I have trouble remembering my own credentials, never mind accessing someone elses log in.
Is any Mod able to work it out?
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I may be barking up the wrong ECU but I post ith good intentions.
If I read correctly, you changed the CAT.
I understand that original CATs are not available or if they are, several hundred pounds (compared to a couple of hundred).
These CATs do not behave the same as original CATs and will cause an error at the ECU.
If I am barking at myself again, apologies. If there is any grain of sense, then I strongly advise you to call Mark at Kmaps.
He was the fuel and emissions engineer for these cars when they were in production (citation needed) and knows more about ECUs, replacement CATs and anything else about what comes out of the engine and how the ECU deals with it, than I have had hot dinners.
Good luck.
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JH, indeed, 2005 models had low coolant warning fitted as standard.
Worth keeping an eye on as that is one of the early signs of HGF (ask me how I know).
And even if the level is OK, keep an eye on what is in the reservoir (when cold, of course).
Hope it is a blip of some kind too.
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Those pesky switches are so easy to accidentally turn on. I had similar and would recommend using LEDs. Easy, cheap and avoid trouble.
(I have to use a Disklok with a long arm).
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Thank you AP. As soon as the magic was done, the engine sounded better.
Looking forward to trying it out more and seeing the better fuel consumption around town.
At motorway speeds, I have seen about 40mpg over 200 miles. I did not buy the car for economy but remarkable that it is possible.
So many good things about buying a TF (& F).
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Dropped in to Mark at Kmaps today.
He checked out the ECU and re-mapped it.
Very nice drive. Always felt that motorway speeds were a challenge.
Now, the car gets there on its own and easy to find more power if needed.
Smoother take-up from a start and sounds much smoother too.
This is what I expected the car to drive like.
Mark is a good man. Such a good opportunity to talk to one of the inventors of these cars.
Well worth the investment.
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