Notanumber

Thats interesting. Does yours have the early Lucas, square, fob or the later Pektron, round, fob ?

Ive added a cheap Ebay variable delay circuit to mine to avoid the alarm giving a false positive squawk on hard cornering. Ive set it to about 10 seconds delay, plenty enough to stop the alarm going off whilst driving round bends. The input current it needs is less than the sounder so i deemed it was safe not to overload the alarm sensor. The delay pcb has s a relay on the output, so it switches a separate live feed to the sounder, hence no additional load on the sensor. (The sensor would otherwise fail if the load across it is too high)

Now basic vacuum filling kits have fallen in price to an affordable £ 20 to £ 30 are there any tips on using one please on the F / TF. For instance do any of the bleed points have to be opened as per the manual process or is the whole job done via the expansion tank ?

A very good coolant alarm that is simple to fit. Ive fitted to 2 TFs and wouldnt run one without. Its very much a DIY fit, no wires need cutting due to the way that Bruce has made the loom. I used CT1 silicone adhesive to glue the sensor to the coolant bottle and put tape round it temporarily whilst it set.

Len Ive just been out to mine to refresh my memory and it is very much easier than it looks.

First that whole plastic plate that carries the connection and all the bulb holders should be separated from the rest of the light fitting. That plastic tang you see a bit left of the letter R needs to be pulled to the side slightly. Theres also a 2nd one like that on the right, about the same distance from the centre. (It isnt quite so easily visible in that photo but it will look similar). The plastic plate then just lifts out. (Relative to your photo, just pull it towards you, away from the fitting).

Withe the bulb holder plate removed you'l be able to see the connector plug is actually an L shaped edge connector. This wont have been obvious whilst the plate was in place.
(Relative to your photo the plug should pull upwards vertically towards the top of the photo). It is only locked by a small piece of flexible plastic molding on the reverse side which will now be visible. Hold this down with the fingers of one hand whilst easing the plug upwards with the other.

The way it's put together isnt obvious but when you know how it goes together you will have it apart and the connectors off in seconds.

Its great you have cured it and even better that you have written it up for others.

You should definitely stick around !

Darren at 'Bitz would be a great source. I ended up with a spare (tested) lambda when I bought a front pipe from him a while ago so let me know if you draw a blank and you can always borrow mine until Darren gets another one in.

Not sure if you know but the pre and post cat lambdas are the same part so if they have just replaced the post cat lambda and it didnt make any difference you can reuse the one they took out in place of the pre cat lambda

Presumably all that complexity and dependence disappears when the ECU is remapped

Del, the clockspring, formally known as the rotary coupler is a completely different thing, unrelated to starting the car or security., It provides physical electrical connection between the wiring loom and the electrical items that turn with the steering wheel such as the horn buttons & driver's airbag. {& shift controls on Stepspeed automatics].
It consists of a spring loaded multicored wire on a spool which sits just behind the airbag. You may have seen it mentioned in relation to diagnosing SRS airbag warning light faults.