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  • Notanumber replied to the topic REAR LIGHTS in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Len Ive just been out to mine to refresh my memory and it is very much easier than it looks.

    First that whole plastic plate that carries the connection and all the bulb holders should be separated from the rest of the light fitting. That plastic tang you see a bit left of the letter R needs to be pulled to the side slightly. Theres also a 2nd one like that on the right, about the same distance from the centre. (It isnt quite so easily visible in that photo but it will look similar). The plastic plate then just lifts out. (Relative to your photo, just pull it towards you, away from the fitting).

    Withe the bulb holder plate removed you'l be able to see the connector plug is actually an L shaped edge connector. This wont have been obvious whilst the plate was in place.
    (Relative to your photo the plug should pull upwards vertically towards the top of the photo). It is only locked by a small piece of flexible plastic molding on the reverse side which will now be visible. Hold this down with the fingers of one hand whilst easing the plug upwards with the other.

    The way it's put together isnt obvious but when you know how it goes together you will have it apart and the connectors off in seconds.
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  • Its great you have cured it and even better that you have written it up for others.

    You should definitely stick around !
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  • Darren at 'Bitz would be a great source. I ended up with a spare (tested) lambda when I bought a front pipe from him a while ago so let me know if you draw a blank and you can always borrow mine until Darren gets another one in.
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  • Not sure if you know but the pre and post cat lambdas are the same part so if they have just replaced the post cat lambda and it didnt make any difference you can reuse the one they took out in place of the pre cat lambda
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  • Presumably all that complexity and dependence disappears when the ECU is remapped
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  • Del, the clockspring, formally known as the rotary coupler is a completely different thing, unrelated to starting the car or security., It provides physical electrical connection between the wiring loom and the electrical items that turn with the steering wheel such as the horn buttons & driver's airbag. {& shift controls on Stepspeed automatics].
    It consists of a spring loaded multicored wire on a spool which sits just behind the airbag. You may have seen it mentioned in relation to diagnosing SRS airbag warning light faults.
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  • Roverlike will have asked that question specifically due to a known behavioral difference between a standard and remapped ECU so the answer needs to be clearer;
    Cutting to the chase: Do you HAVE to unlock the door with the fob before you can start the car ?

    E.g if your one remaining fob went missing would you still be able to open and then start the car just with the key ?
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  • I'd recommend pasting and posting this into the PSCAN sub forum as their guy doesn't tend to check the other sections such as this.

    If they cant answer for certain then note down the ref numbers from your ECU, your reg and VIN and write to both KMAPS and SAWS to see if they have a record of having remapped that ECU.

    Its a bonus if you do have a remapped ECU from one of them as it increases engine smoothness and efficiency.
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  • Notanumber replied to the topic FRONT BRAKES in MGF/TF Pitstop
    The most productive form of physio all round !
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  • Notanumber thanked the user David Aiketgate in the forum post, Instrument cluster removal
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