MAXTHEDOG

Thanks Bryan,
Yes, bad combination of cold weather and using lights, heater and fan on the last few times I did use it, on short journeys - read under 10 miles. I’ve just looked at my mileage records and I’ve only done 237 Miles on the battery.Coupled with the period of non use due to the seemingly incessant rain we’ve had up here…..
Regards,
Michael.

Thanks Airportable and Notanumber. I know what you mean, I’ve got my fingers crossed but we’ll….I’ll see.
Since I haven’t abused it I’m expecting it to be covered by the supposed 5 year warranty. I’ll see that too.
Cheers,
Michael.

Hmmm. Good points Cobber. Thanks for your input. 👍🏻

Hi All,
So went out in the Freelander yesterday but first had to free off the rear brakes (bit smelly) but got going. Then I thought better check the MG as I haven’t used it for a good fortnight maybe three weeks. No stuck brakes but battery flat i.e. so flat there were no dash lights. Bearing in mind this Bosch battery was new on 27/11 last. Light was fading so left it. Removed it today and checked the voltage before putting the CTEK on it - 4.7V! Any opinions on whether it’ll recover? I put the CTEK into ‘Recon’ mode so I’ll see what happens tomorrow probably now as the 12 hours apparently required is late on tonight. As Cobber has said in my previous battery post he always removes the battery when his is not going to be used for a while. Has anyone fitted a battery isolator switch as per Rally regulations? At least that should stop the immobiliser etc draining it. Anyone know what if any insurance implications this would have given that your are effectively turning off the alarm and immobiliser. I should add that I haven’t got anything else cameras, etc that are permanently active, so unless there’s a faulty circuit I’m assuming it can only be the alarm etc. Once I’ve got a reliable battery again I’ll do some investigating to see what the drain current is.
Cheers,
Michael.

Thanks Steve. 👍🏻

Hi All,
So after having the engine light on with no codes a couple of weeks back after reply the battery, it been back twice since last Friday in both journeys. This time it’s thrown codes P0136 & 0141. According to my reader this is the Oxygen sensor 2 bank 1. Post cat? The drawings I have show two sensors but don’t differentiate between them - they’re both called Sensor-Heated Oxygen (T131). Are they identical? Are they accessible (I’m guessing not really)? Looking on the MGOC site there appears to be three listed could anyone confirm the part number. Is it worth doing both now?
On a completely different subject, the dipped beam is playing up by delaying lighting the first time it’s switched on. Once it on the first time it can switched on again perfectly. Is the switch mechanism in the stalk or is there some kind of linkage to the switches in the steering column?
Any help would be greatly appreciated before I start to delve into these issues.
Regards,
Michael.

Absolutely. I did ask Darren if he’d any ideas to try before the trek down to Glossop. The thought of fighting my way through central Sheffield at ANY time was making me feel ill!
In a previous life I had to commute to the University of Sheffield daily for about 4 years.
He knows my TF as its previous owner used them a lot from the paperwork that came with it.
Given that he suggested something is mucho brownie points in my book and if anything major happens I’ll be down there.
Cheers,
Michael.

Checked the battery terminals and got 14.5 V , so looks like the charging circuit is ok after all.
Spoke with MGF & TF Bitz regarding the engine light but no codes, they suggested I select clear anyway. This cleared the light and all’s good with my world now!😁
Cheers.

Hi,
Well I replaced the dodgy battery clamp and all that’s good now……I’ll see how the alternator/regulator performs.
Incidentally I received for my birthday recently a Gunsons 80A current meter with three different adapters for the various sized automotive fuse links. If I remove the battery fuse and monitor the current while on tick over what level of current should I expect to see?
But. Now I’ve now got the engine right on and with my el cheapo hardware widget and Car Scanner iPhone app there’s no codes to be found apparently.
It did this just after I’d bought it in June with a lambda sensor code and went out after I’d filled it up with premium unleaded, never returned until today. I’ve fill ed it up again today from 1/4 full with premium so it may resolve again. I can’t help thinking that recent events of not much use and flat battery haven’t got some bearing on this so will see if it stays. There seems to be nothing untoward regarding the running of the car, everything seems to be doing its thing.
However, if it doesn’t resolve itself what are your recommendations regarding getting the code. From what I gather PScan seems to be the bees knees but I’d rather not get a PC (or Mac) involved. I’d much rather have a hardware code reader.
Apologies for the War and Peace essay.
Regards,
Michael.