Borgy

Like it says on the tin, the windows works when it wants to and doesn't work when it cant be bothered.

I have read a few places that it might be the replays in the BCU?

Is this likely?

Is it an easy swap

Hi, I have done some searching but not found the answers yet

My son's TF has had heater control problems since we got it at the end of last year.

The control valve itself seems to work ok but the know didn't have too much affect on it

When I was playing around with it a few weeks ago. I managed to take the knob off, and when i pushed it back in, it pushed the shaft back in instead of pushing on to it.

This evening I decided to sort it, and managed to get the shaft back through by getting my hand in the passenger side of the console, and got the know fitted again

After operating it a few times, it went slack and I am not sure if the mech has fallen to bits or the cable snapped.

I have a spare F unit to play with so thought I would drop it out.

Are there any guides to doing this as it looks a complete mare.

Fuse 4 is fine as it feeds the drivers window , and that working, forgot to actually check id there is supply to the fuse way as I assumed it would be fed dioecy from a busbar on the fuse board. I will check

One of the last things to repair on the TF.

The heater is always on hot. (or cold now as I have moved the valve)

The valve was stuck a bit so I coerced it a little and adjusted the cable, but the knob still wasn't doing a great deal.

Took the knob off, but when i went to put it back on, the spline it is supposed to fit on pushed backwards and now is not sticking out. The knob itself has a split, so could be one of the reasons it wasn't moving the cable to operate the valve.

Do i need the console off to push this back through? Or is it likely to be buggered completely?

My sons car is now all up and running, and is MOT'd and on the road.

Just a couple of small issues left to deal with

Passenger side window not working. No supply to the switch. I thought it would be a fuse or a corroded fuse but checked, cleaned and cleaned the female connection on fuseboard.

Does the supply loop into anything before getting to the switch? Or am a looking for a broken wire?

02 plate 135 sprint

managed to find a MGF one. I assume its the same ?

2002 TF been stood for about three years before I bought it.
Picked it up for peanuts as a non runner. Immobilizer out of sync and starter fuse corroded / blown.
I bought the car as my 17 year old sons first car.
Sorted most issues apart from the ABS light stays on.
Checked all sensors, and the connectors are dry , with 1.6 k ohms resistance on each, and 0.7 volts AC when I spin the wheels, so they all look ok
Took the connector of the pump, and all looks dry.

As I had a problem with fuse 19 (the starter circuit fuse) i thought fuse 20 (ABS) might be a bit iffy also, but put a lamp into the side of fuse and lit both sides.

So I would like to check everything from the ABS unit to make sure I have got a ground, live, and continuity all the way to the unit.

For this, I could do with the pin outs. Or any other advice. I have trawled the forums but no more answers without PSCAN