DavePro

Another possibility for checking EPAS output is pscan. I found that mine gave Target and Observed current. With both at zero, my EPAS seemed in good shape. Twiddling the wheel gave fascinating changes to all the figures. Maybe this would work for someone adjusting the pot. pscan.uk gives the EPAS data provided in Features.
David

An update for those of us silly enough to live in the wrong hemisphere. The Technozen site says that only 433Mhz fobs can be supplied, not our 315's. Drat.

A local locksmith has obtained a new 315, with 22 numbers, for me and I look forward to coding it with my new pscan. Clayton has a Pektron.

By the way, I was also silly enough to ask Pektron if they might be able to make some fobs. Not as silly as it sounds - they boast about making a wide variety of fobs and I thought it possible that minor changes might make one compatible with TF's. Guess the (very quick and polite) answer.

David

Problem solved. And, as usual, it's my fault. Or maybe my wife's. When trying Cobber's suggestion to work locks manually I found that the passenger door was not fully closed, although it looked shut. After closing, everything worked as MG intended. So fuse back in, lights, clock and radio back up, all's right in the world.
Philip, my apologies for speculating that pscan might somehow have been involved in my problem. Correlation is not causation. And thanks to those who took time to try to solve my problem.

David
P.S. My background is in explosives, EOD and demolition, so I have terrible trouble avoiding the spelling 'fuze'. Think I made it this time.

Thanks for that, I hadn't worked it out. I'll probably check the driver's door first as it's the most used. I'd have thought that turning the ignition on might still have cancelled the interior lights, but not so.

Yesterday I was pleased to receive my pscan from Philip. Hooked it up to the old Compaq laptop, loaded up the software, plugged it in to Clayton (Oct '03 Japanese Spec TF with Pektron) and everything worked as it should. On the Pektron page I tried the various actuators, all of which worked as advertised except the Interior Lamps, which stayed on regardless. I didn't think much about that, but after I finished fiddling and left the car overnight I found a flat battery the next morning. Charged, it turns out that the interior lamps stay on regardless of the position of the doors, ignition key or my mouth. I cranked up pscan again and tried the lamp actuator , but selecting on or off made no difference. Currently I've pulled the fuse, losing clock and audio as well.

I'm assuming that the problem is Pektron related. I can't see how testing the actuator could have caused the problem, but does anybody have any relevant experience or ideas?

Another minor change happens when I alarm the car. The lights have never blinked when I lock the car with the fob and still don't, but now the horn gives a short beep . Also, the alarm light on the dash no longer flashes. Hard not to wonder if my fiddling with pscan has made these changes, but I can't see how. I carefully avoided using any function change buttons.

All suggestions gratefully appreciated. Sadly, it's not practical to send the Pektron to Technozen from New Zealand.

David

Thanks, AP. I first put the old TF on a track in 68, although there've been large gaps in its experience. For a while I ran a U2, an X1-9 and an MG Metro. About 10 years ago I put a blower on it: only 5PSI because I wanted to keep it fit for road use. That gave it about MGB power and helped acceleration, but the car has such high drag that, with a 4.3 diff, it wouldn't exceed about 95 MPH. I'm always baffled by drivers who say they got their old TF up to 100 MPH with a head job or a change of exhaust. Mine had a pretty good head job, new cam, bigger valves and so on. Mind you, they aren't really designed for the track. Couple of crankshafts, sets of pistons after dropped valves, broken axles, broken gearboxes, cracked wheels etc, etc. Apart from the usual nausea like shedding a fan blade at top speed on a straight (below) and thinking the engine had blown up. Again. Ah, memories.

Thanks for the ideas. I do intend to get a four wheel laser alignment for the new tyres, but haven't got round to it yet. The oversteer is under high - usually full - power on the corners and reminds me so much of my 55 TF I'm quite happy with it. If it gets too much of an angle I just back the power off a little to bring the tail in. I did try a little more pressure in the rear tyres to stiffen them up, but it made no difference. The old TF needed to change from 26 to 40 PSI on the track.

The car runs very well under normal conditions, and the tyres show no signs of odd wear yet, so I don't think it's far out of line. Not enough to generate strong oversteer, anyway.

Of course, sometimes my '55 TF would understeer at the limit, too.