Topic

I’m inclined to think that the braking of the casting to be slim.
The aggregation of rust will have a lower failure point than the casting. You can alternate the pressure points by rotating the disc & using alternate threaded holes. If you use two bolts through the casting & rotate the disc 0*, 180* 90*& 270* & repeat, I’m sure it’ll simple pop off.
M

The bolt method works well - it won't break the casting.

Hello finally Ive managed to remove the disc I had a three legged puller and the twp bolts through the caliper holes I also had my Oxcy Acet flame on the disc and finally a lump hammer to encourage it .I thing the puller using an extension was the final way of getting it off Even when" the seal"of rust was broken it took a lot of pulling to get the disc off .It seemed to be on the shoulder rather than the face .Anyway its done,I can now flat the paintwork wirh 2000 wet and dry and then poish it .The next job,it to repair the rear bumper which id split Thanks again for all the suggestions re the disc ,once again the power of a forum Len

For some reason the photos I included in the last post ,dont appear so try again Len

It looks great with the new disc and the cleaned up caliper Len. Not to mention the shiny paintwork

Did you anoint the disc / hub mating surfaces with copper slip? Two minutes & a copper coloured finger end is better than having to fight it next time. Everything that is likely to need removing & can take a spot of this golden elixir gets some.
There are instances where it’s inadvisable so use your gumption. Not especially you Len, folk in general.
M