Topic

Righto. Can I assume therefore that you have the column & matching ECU, (you must have as you’ve commented on the pulse train frequency). I’m unaware of any coded marriage between one & the other, however I note that when a column is up for sale on eBay you get the ECU.
As I’ve said I want to fit an adjustable unit & have the ECU, my intention is to transpose my electrics into the replacement ironmongery, setting the pot up with a greater degree of accuracy on the bench as they pass through. It’s this department which differs (4 wire plays 6, as I recall, or is it 8-6, deleted as appropriate), however two from the six are brought together to end up as the four,
I’m away at the moment & can’t make headway with the diagrams on my phone, so if you feel I can help further PM me & we’ll take it from there.
M

The 6 wire sensor seems to be more plentiful than the 4 wire ones. Im assuming the 4 wire type came along part way through the TF run as all the circuit diagrams i have found so far show the 6 wire type.

colour at sensor --- Colour in the loom
Red --- Orange [O]
Green --- Orange / Blue [OU]
Black --- Orange / Yellow [OY]
Blue --- Orange/ White [OW] ***
Yellow --- White [W]
White --- Blue/ Green [UG] ***

According to Dieter's site those two sensor wires marked *** are in the loom but not used. (I have not yet verified this on a bench test but will do so and report back)

Check the model of EPAS ECU you have, there were 4 types fitted to UK built cars.

YWC103771 - very earliest, few were fitted.
YWC103773 - early MGFs, silver casing. Fitted upto VIN XD511058
YWC106740 - black case Fitted from VIN YD511059 upto 2D600100
YWC000720 colour not described MGG TF from VIN 2D600101 onwards

If the model number of the ECU in your car happens to match that of the ECU that came with the adjustable column then there is definitely no need to swap them over.

I’ll check against those part numbers when I’m back in circulation. One is as supplied in 1998 & the most recent arrival is 2002 (from memory, which is not always a good recommendation) & that date is taken from the “clock” moulded into the ignition switch plastic work.
M

Quick reply on EPAS ECU, the unit supplied with my replacement column isn’t on your list, unless there’s a typo with an extra 0.
YWC 00720, interestingly there’s no date code on the outside.
I can fill in the colour; silver with rust spots & the brown sticky off packing tape.
M

That will be the late TF one. I think an extra zero found its way in the text. What code is your original ?

Don’t wait up for that info. My son & I planted an acorn in his patch of the garden when we moved here (he was one), the tree is now magnificent, I’m as flexible as that tree. I’d need to strip out the glove box to make identification easier & that “easier “ is still a bloody ball buster.
M

I would recommend bench checking the bias of the new column to ensure there will be no pulling to the left etc. With the column plugged in but not connected to the rack its the ideal time to do this. I've just done mine on the bench and it was a doddle. I've added a note to the How To on this.

That is the projected job & thanks in anticipation for the how to, I shall check it out later. Those parts have parted company from the rest of the hardware & are tucked in one of my pending boxes.
M

That set up idea using LEDs across the EPAS motor is natty, bordering on the inspired, I like it a lot. As it happens I have a bag of red/blue LEDS wired back to back & a bag of 1K2 resistors (always a useful value for current limiting). I shall integrate this as a fixture when I'm doing the column mod's, not on display but discretely under the dash.
I was trying to engineer a trim circuit using a low value of ten turn pot to allow micro adjustments & this would have been a very useful adjunct. It wasn't a success. Rather than plough on regardless & get nowhere, it was quietly sidelined with only you & I knowing about it.
So keep it under your hat.
M