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02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 4 months ago #135736
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- David Aiketgate
- Offline
- David
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- mgf mk2 freestyle mpi 16" wheels, in Anthracite.
- Posts: 20140
- Thanks: 4388
Working well, mate.
Just one tip you'll get much better results using a proper release spray like Plus Gas instead of WD40.
Just one tip you'll get much better results using a proper release spray like Plus Gas instead of WD40.
David
02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 4 months ago #135846
If you only need to repaint - then wouldn't bumper removal, a set of ramps and a day underneath done the job then? 
If the engine is on a dolly - could you not rig up a hoist on the garage rafters? Otherwise I'm happy to lift one end - will work for tea..
If the engine is on a dolly - could you not rig up a hoist on the garage rafters? Otherwise I'm happy to lift one end - will work for tea.. 02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 4 months ago #135872
If you only need to repaint - then wouldn't bumper removal, a set of ramps and a day underneath done the job then?
Probably but then I wouldn't have a good excuse for the planned upgrades
could you not rig up a hoist on the garage rafters?
not sure they're up-to the extra weight, there's already the parts from 2 minis up there and some of the parts from the TF.
Otherwise I'm happy to lift one end - will work for tea.
I might take you up on that!
02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 4 months ago #136149
Saturday 14th December
My left hand drill bits arrived in the week so I decided to make a start on drilling out the sheared bolts. Of the 3 front sub-frame mount ones, 2 were by the sills, so only one could be done without some other pre work.
As you can see in this pic it’s not possible to drill into the one next to the sill because of the folded over edge of the sill.
So I marked up where the drills chuck would be, cut into the sill with a junior hacksaw, and the folded the edge down with a pair of mole grips. It then looked like this.
I flattened off the end of the bolt with a file, marked the centre with a centre punch, and drilled a 2mm pilot hole. Next I used 3mm bit, then a 4mm bit until I got up-to 6mm. At no point did the left hand drill bits bite enough to undo the seized bolt. The final size before taping the M8 thread would be 6.8mm, but I had marked up slightly off centre. So I spent 20 minutes opening the hole up on thickest side with a needle file. But got called in for dinner before I was finished.
Sunday 15th December
Completed filing, ran the 6.8mm bit through and tapped a new thread. On the other side I had two to-do. Got started with the one closer to the centre of the car. Marked with centre punch, but this time used my cobalt drills, as they are a bit quicker, even if you do have to stop every few minutes and spray on some lubricant. Again I suffered from not quite getting dead centre.
I was just finishing this one when “Mr Maltby” and “BarryD” arrived.
We had a quick natter over a cup of tea, and then tried to lift the engine and gearbox off the sub-frame, but it was too heavy.
So we gave up and had a bit more of a natter. Looks like I will have to borrow an engine crane form somewhere after all. Thanks anyways boys!
For the second of the bolts next to the sill, I followed the same procedure as for the first, and all went well. In the end the one that should have been the easiest to get at was the one I was least pleased with. Looks like there are not enough good threads cut into the metal, so will have to follow CJJ’s new “How to fix a damaged subframe thread” how-to.
Next I moved on to removing the bolts from the Alloy buttress. One had already sheared when in a previous attempt, so I had been soaking the other in 3-in-1 penetrating oil all week. But it still sheared when I tried to undo it. Damn!
But anyway the engine mount could be lifted off, and I was presented by a thick layer of grot. Some of it was granular form and looked like salt.
(Sorry about the picture quality. Looked better on my phone honest)
I scrapped most of it off with a chisel (by hand without the use of a hammer!) and then clean up further with the drill and wire cup brush.
As both bolts had sheared I wasn’t sure what size they were, so I passed both M8 and M10 through one of the engine mount holes and decided they were probably M10.
The remainder of the sheared bolts were filed back flat and flush with the surface of the buttress, then centre punched. I wasn’t looking forward to drilling out steel bolts from softer aluminium, but I was able to use a pillar drill which is more accurate. There was a fair amount of fiddling because of the shape of the buttress. But starting with 2mm bit and working in 1mm increments I eventually got to the final 8.6mm drill prior to tapping the treads. With both done I decided to give it a quick clean up with the drill and cup brush. This was the result.
I think I will spray it with some lacquer to give it some protection before it goes back on. But it was the end of another days tinkering. Time to go in for food and
My left hand drill bits arrived in the week so I decided to make a start on drilling out the sheared bolts. Of the 3 front sub-frame mount ones, 2 were by the sills, so only one could be done without some other pre work.
As you can see in this pic it’s not possible to drill into the one next to the sill because of the folded over edge of the sill.
So I marked up where the drills chuck would be, cut into the sill with a junior hacksaw, and the folded the edge down with a pair of mole grips. It then looked like this.
I flattened off the end of the bolt with a file, marked the centre with a centre punch, and drilled a 2mm pilot hole. Next I used 3mm bit, then a 4mm bit until I got up-to 6mm. At no point did the left hand drill bits bite enough to undo the seized bolt. The final size before taping the M8 thread would be 6.8mm, but I had marked up slightly off centre. So I spent 20 minutes opening the hole up on thickest side with a needle file. But got called in for dinner before I was finished.
Sunday 15th December
Completed filing, ran the 6.8mm bit through and tapped a new thread. On the other side I had two to-do. Got started with the one closer to the centre of the car. Marked with centre punch, but this time used my cobalt drills, as they are a bit quicker, even if you do have to stop every few minutes and spray on some lubricant. Again I suffered from not quite getting dead centre.
I was just finishing this one when “Mr Maltby” and “BarryD” arrived.
We had a quick natter over a cup of tea, and then tried to lift the engine and gearbox off the sub-frame, but it was too heavy.
So we gave up and had a bit more of a natter. Looks like I will have to borrow an engine crane form somewhere after all. Thanks anyways boys!
For the second of the bolts next to the sill, I followed the same procedure as for the first, and all went well. In the end the one that should have been the easiest to get at was the one I was least pleased with. Looks like there are not enough good threads cut into the metal, so will have to follow CJJ’s new “How to fix a damaged subframe thread” how-to.
Next I moved on to removing the bolts from the Alloy buttress. One had already sheared when in a previous attempt, so I had been soaking the other in 3-in-1 penetrating oil all week. But it still sheared when I tried to undo it. Damn!
But anyway the engine mount could be lifted off, and I was presented by a thick layer of grot. Some of it was granular form and looked like salt.
(Sorry about the picture quality. Looked better on my phone honest)
I scrapped most of it off with a chisel (by hand without the use of a hammer!) and then clean up further with the drill and wire cup brush.
As both bolts had sheared I wasn’t sure what size they were, so I passed both M8 and M10 through one of the engine mount holes and decided they were probably M10.
The remainder of the sheared bolts were filed back flat and flush with the surface of the buttress, then centre punched. I wasn’t looking forward to drilling out steel bolts from softer aluminium, but I was able to use a pillar drill which is more accurate. There was a fair amount of fiddling because of the shape of the buttress. But starting with 2mm bit and working in 1mm increments I eventually got to the final 8.6mm drill prior to tapping the treads. With both done I decided to give it a quick clean up with the drill and cup brush. This was the result.
I think I will spray it with some lacquer to give it some protection before it goes back on. But it was the end of another days tinkering. Time to go in for food and
02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 3 months ago #137413
It’s been a while since my last update. Quite a bit of time was taken up shopping for Christmas, and then with the actual festivities. Including meeting up with BarryD on Christmas eve for , and again last weekend for more and a chat with MrMaltby also.
Nonetheless I have been in and out of the garage whenever time permitted so continue the cleaning and painting marathon.
Some items have been rattle can painted. Such as the clutch slave cylinder and engine restraint
Also the Air and fuel filter bracket.
But many more have had 2 coats of Hammerite smooth. They spend a week in the airing cupboard after each coat. Here’s a collection that has had 2 coats.
I’m now about half way through.
Having started the New Year, I decided to spend the Christmas cash given to me by various older relatives that aren’t up to braving the busy shops, on an engine crane and spreader.
FoxHunter 2 Tonne Hydraulic engine Hoist Crane & 750KG Chain Load Level New
, and again last weekend for more and a chat with MrMaltby also.Nonetheless I have been in and out of the garage whenever time permitted so continue the cleaning and painting marathon.
Some items have been rattle can painted. Such as the clutch slave cylinder and engine restraint
Also the Air and fuel filter bracket.
But many more have had 2 coats of Hammerite smooth. They spend a week in the airing cupboard after each coat. Here’s a collection that has had 2 coats.
I’m now about half way through.
Having started the New Year, I decided to spend the Christmas cash given to me by various older relatives that aren’t up to braving the busy shops, on an engine crane and spreader.
I went for the 2 ton one as it was only £3 more than the 1 ton. But it turned out to be a huge beasty.
Still it got the engine off the sub frame ok…
…and folds up reasonably compactly.
I spent 8 hours cleaning the sub frame. It started out like this…
…you can see rust on areas that are not reachable from under the car
2 hours steam cleaning removed the majority of thick grease, followed by a washing down with soapy water and 6 with the drill and angle grinder and various wire brush attachments.
I decided I would have a go at spray painting it with thinned down hammerite, so made a spray booth by stapling some old sheets to the rafters, and then suspended the sub frame from the engine crane.
However whilst testing the spray gun the compressor decided to jam which blew the fuse to the sockets in the garage
. By this time the DIY shed were closed and I had no spares so there was no way to fix it . I didn’t want to leave the sub frame unpainted for a week and have to spend another 6 hours cleaning it again, so out came the paint brush, and 3-4 hours late one coat had been applied.
I’ve since given it a second coat, and painted up some more items which are now in the airing cupboard much to the delight of my long suffering wife. So this weekend will be spent giving them a second coat, and cleaning some more parts. Oh joy
- I must book mine in with you. AND for more beers too. 02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 3 months ago #137441
I don't mind you following my how-to's, but buying exactly the same engine crane too............
Only joking. The engine crane is a very, very handy tool. Even for jobs on the engine in situ where you need to take the weight of the engine.
Looks like a good job there, and it is so satisfying when it all goes back together.
Only joking. The engine crane is a very, very handy tool. Even for jobs on the engine in situ where you need to take the weight of the engine.
Looks like a good job there, and it is so satisfying when it all goes back together.
02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 3 months ago #137990
So two weeks later and what’s been done. Lots more cleaning and painting that’s what.
Got up early last weekend to this…
…the frost I mean. Time for the thermals me thinks!
Too cold for painting so I focused on cleaning parts and getting them ready for paint.
So broke down and cleaned, N/S upper and lower arms, O/S brake calliper, both damper assemblies.
Here’s a 50/50 of the calliper part way through cleaning with the wire wheel.
That was thick dirt!
The springs on the other hand didn’t look too rusty, but a few minutes with the wire wheel and it was evident that there was plenty of rust, so I took the time to remove all the paint.
In the week I brought a large box home from work, cut one side of it and setup a spray booth in my office, much to the amusement (not) of my long suffering missus. Springs are just about painted now though
This weekend I’ve stripped down both hubs. The bolts securing the ABS sensors were both rusted fast, and required drilling out. I remembered this being an unpleasant job from when I did the front ones, so decided to only drill out the head +5mm and was then able to lift the sensor out of its bracket. I tried to free the plastic bracket but it was clear that corrosion had fused the copper part..
…to the steel bolt, so I just gave it a smack with the hammer and then sawed the remaining bolt off as close to flush as possible. The remainder was drilled out and the M6 thread re tapped. Whilst the tap set was out also cleaned up the M10 tread through which the lower arm bolts as these had suffered a bit when the rusty exposed ends of the bolts had been wound through.
Here’s a couple of after pictures…
I tried to drill out the remnant of the broken disk retaining screw, but the end is not flat, and is below the surface of the flange, so the drill kept moving off centre. It will have to wait until after the flange and hub have been separated in prep to replace the bearings.
I also removed the bush from the lower arm, which was a longer job than I anticipated. Here it is with some other parts ready for paint.
I’m getting close to being able to reassemble, so it was time to spend some money
. I picked this little lot up from Glen of MGmania.
From left to right
• Rear Poly bush set
• 2x poly top damper bush sets
• Spax adjustable dampers
• 2 bearing sets
• Fuel filter
• Stainless clutch hose
• Pair of gear cable gaiters
• 2x Upper ball joints
• Stainless brake disk screws
• Oil filter, washer and sump plug.
Can’t wait to start putting it all together again, but I think I have at least two more weekends of cleaning and painting.
Got up early last weekend to this…
…the frost I mean. Time for the thermals me thinks!
Too cold for painting so I focused on cleaning parts and getting them ready for paint.
So broke down and cleaned, N/S upper and lower arms, O/S brake calliper, both damper assemblies.
Here’s a 50/50 of the calliper part way through cleaning with the wire wheel.
That was thick dirt!
The springs on the other hand didn’t look too rusty, but a few minutes with the wire wheel and it was evident that there was plenty of rust, so I took the time to remove all the paint.
In the week I brought a large box home from work, cut one side of it and setup a spray booth in my office, much to the amusement (not) of my long suffering missus. Springs are just about painted now though
This weekend I’ve stripped down both hubs. The bolts securing the ABS sensors were both rusted fast, and required drilling out. I remembered this being an unpleasant job from when I did the front ones, so decided to only drill out the head +5mm and was then able to lift the sensor out of its bracket. I tried to free the plastic bracket but it was clear that corrosion had fused the copper part..
Here’s a couple of after pictures…
I tried to drill out the remnant of the broken disk retaining screw, but the end is not flat, and is below the surface of the flange, so the drill kept moving off centre. It will have to wait until after the flange and hub have been separated in prep to replace the bearings.
I also removed the bush from the lower arm, which was a longer job than I anticipated. Here it is with some other parts ready for paint.
I’m getting close to being able to reassemble, so it was time to spend some money
. I picked this little lot up from Glen of MGmania.
From left to right
• Rear Poly bush set
• 2x poly top damper bush sets
• Spax adjustable dampers
• 2 bearing sets
• Fuel filter
• Stainless clutch hose
• Pair of gear cable gaiters
• 2x Upper ball joints
• Stainless brake disk screws
• Oil filter, washer and sump plug.
Can’t wait to start putting it all together again, but I think I have at least two more weekends of cleaning and painting.
02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment 10 years 2 months ago #138434
Saturday 8th February 2014
Last weekend I had a local garage press out the bearings and install the new ones. They were good enough to leave the pressing in of the drive flange with the broken screw until after I’d had time to drill it out. Working from the opposite side worked a treat, and it actually unscrewed when I was running the last drill bit through as it was rotating in the same direction as the tread. No need to re-tap the thread, bonus!
Getting to the end of the cleaning and painting now. The last of the large items has been cleaned up and one coat of paint applied.
So it’s time to start replacing old with new
I took the dampers apart a few weeks ago, and clean up the springs and repainted them, so today I assembled everything onto the new spax units. They went from this…
To this…
I also started the process of installing the new poly bushes…
…from left to right, lower arm with poly bush, with original bush, and the 22mm spanner I broke in the process
. Both were done, but I was left wishing I had removed the old bush before painting as the paint inevitable got damaged during the process.
Finally, as there’s no council tax this month I had enough funds to buy some more bits. So I purchased the ABS brackets and bolts from Rimmer Bros, and the poly torque tamer set from Moto-Build Racing…
Last weekend I had a local garage press out the bearings and install the new ones. They were good enough to leave the pressing in of the drive flange with the broken screw until after I’d had time to drill it out. Working from the opposite side worked a treat, and it actually unscrewed when I was running the last drill bit through as it was rotating in the same direction as the tread. No need to re-tap the thread, bonus!
Getting to the end of the cleaning and painting now. The last of the large items has been cleaned up and one coat of paint applied.
So it’s time to start replacing old with new
I took the dampers apart a few weeks ago, and clean up the springs and repainted them, so today I assembled everything onto the new spax units. They went from this…
To this…
I also started the process of installing the new poly bushes…
…from left to right, lower arm with poly bush, with original bush, and the 22mm spanner I broke in the process
. Both were done, but I was left wishing I had removed the old bush before painting as the paint inevitable got damaged during the process. Finally, as there’s no council tax this month I had enough funds to buy some more bits. So I purchased the ABS brackets and bolts from Rimmer Bros, and the poly torque tamer set from Moto-Build Racing…
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