Plasma Dials - How to fit.

6 years 2 weeks ago - 9 months 2 weeks ago #22881 by David Aiketgate
Starting with this


EDIT ( I've now found that with a bit of wiggling you can simply release the cowl by undoing the 4 screws and ease the cowl forward and rotate anticlockwise to get it out of the way and then remove the 4 screws holding the instrument pod. This means you don't have to remove the steering wheel or disconnect the mirror control and dimmer )
If, however, you decide to take off the steering wheel and column shrouding to make the job easier. Follow below.

To remove the steering wheel, first disconnect the battery. After 15 mins or so, remove the airbag.The air bag is held on with two Torx30 bolts accessed from the rear of the wheel.


Then disconnect the yellow plug, and put the airbag aside.


Loosen and remove the 19mm retaining nut, and then unplug the multi plug. You can then pull the wheel towards you to remove it.(mark the position of wheel on centre spline for refitting)
It is vital that you take measures to ensure the contactor doesn't rotate or it may be damaged.

The column shroud is held with 3 screws underneath. 2 near the stalks and 1 at the bottom under the fusebox cover.

So, the outer cowl of the dials is held in with 4 screws, two shorter ones here


and here


and two others here


and here


You can now ease the cowl forward to remove the connectors from the dimmer and the mirror control.




It was at this point I realised I should have taken the steering wheel off.

The instruments are also held by 4 screws, two here


and here


two here


and here


It is now possible to pull the instrument pod forward to see and release two long grey connectors and a short yellow one.

David
:shrug:

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6 years 2 weeks ago #22882 by David Aiketgate
With the connectors freed you can now ease the instrument pod out. This is the rear face of the pod.

Disconnect the dial illumination plug.

The clear and black cover is held on with 4 black lugs.

2 here either side of the yellow sticker.


and 2 on the other side. but first you need to remove the 2 metal brackets. They are marked left and right.


Now, by pressing the lugs in you can ease the front off.


Now you can begin fitting the dials. Ease them over the needles, and locate them on the lugs.

David
:shrug:

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6 years 2 weeks ago - 6 years 2 weeks ago #22883 by David Aiketgate

You need to cut a channel to allow the wires to exit the pod.

Then you need to ease the front back on whilst keeping the dials in position. it might be easier to use something like Pritt stick to keep them steady whilst pressing the front into place.


Now replace the metal brackets. I took the opportunity to remove the yellow filter from the light box. As I intend to fit red leds into the box to illuminate the needles.


You now have four wires hanging out of the pod. Connect the 4 plugs to the 4 sockets on the transformer lead.

David
:shrug:
The following user(s) said Thank You: Leigh Ping

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6 years 2 weeks ago #22894 by rayb
excelent david carnt wait till part 2 as im looking at changing my cream face for the plasma one.

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6 years 2 weeks ago - 6 years 2 weeks ago #22895 by David Aiketgate
Don't forget to plug the lightbox back in.
Now you need to replace the instrument pod into the dash, feed the wiring in, positioning the transformer where it won't knock or flap about.
Refit the four screws to hold the pod in place.


Now you need to decide where you are going to position the control switch/dimmer.
You can see my position here.


Refit the cowl.


Now you will need to pick up a live from the sidelight/instruments circuit and an earth.

Interestingly,
the middle spare connection between the two I used for the heated seats is a suitable live.

The three connections are, left to right 1/.ignition live 2/. Lights live 3/. Permanent Live.

David
:shrug:

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6 years 2 weeks ago #22904 by David Aiketgate
Refit the steering column shroud and the steering wheel. Don't forget to re-align the steering wheel. Reconnect the multiplug and the air bag connection. Bolt up the airbag.

Reconnect the battery and test your electrics. Test to see all your dials are working correctly










David
:shrug:
The following user(s) said Thank You: bryan young, Leigh Ping

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6 years 2 weeks ago #22912 by David Aiketgate

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6 years 1 week ago #22939 by bryan young
Thank you David, that was a really good post and "How To" ~ Dials look great too!! :woohoo:

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5 years 11 months ago #24330 by talkingcars
Useful info.

I managed to remove the dails from my MK1 without removing the steering wheel, not having the gear change buttons may help. Removing the rubber cover from the trip meter reset button makes all the difference, then gentle wriggle it out to the right.

However before it comes out you have to disconnect the speedo drive, this is done by closing the white fitting at the end furthest from the actual speedo. It may be quite difficult the first time but the design has improved over the 1980's MGs which helps.


Home to black MGZS180, yellow MGZS180, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and red MG Maestro T16.

MG - the friendly marque.

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5 years 11 months ago #24337 by broon
I did a how to showing you can remove the instrument cluster without removing anything, other than the cowel ;). Obviosuly the Mk2 doesn't have the speedo cable of course

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5 years 11 months ago #24351 by talkingcars
It doesn't appear in your section.......

Once I removed the dial cowling the top steering column cowling just pops off.


Home to black MGZS180, yellow MGZS180, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and red MG Maestro T16.

MG - the friendly marque.

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5 years 6 months ago #29843 by dazlightyear
I have just seen the plama dials,never seen them before,I must get out more .not sure if I like them but where do you get them from

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