Topic

LOL

mgf -reborn wrote: wrote:

having kids.

Yeah my TF time is limited now to 30mins a day before work the mrs doesn't even know about it. Today's small job was to fit LEDs to the rear view mirror - well get rid of the green ones.

bensewell wrote: wrote:

6 cat nuts 1 day grrrrr

You castrated 3 cats in one day

Changing my exhaust back box...
A whole weekend, actual tears of frustration, incorrect parts, Mk1 / Mk2 confustion, another MG'er driving a 5hr round trip to being me a part on the Sunday lunchtime and another MG'er doing a 2hr round trip with another part and help fit on the sunday night.
Theres a 20 page forum thread on here about my epic journey.
I dont mind changing all that now as bolts are new and I know whats going on but id never offer to assist someone with an rusted old Mk1 exhaust again

The cat is definitely a spot for stainless steel hardware.

Funny but changing the CAT on my MPi was a breeze-Go Figure???

Please, nobody even mention gear cables! (Mind you, I never expected them to be easy!)

Worst job up to now was changing the front top radius arm needle roller bearings on my previous TF.

While doing a service and a pre MOT check I found excessive play in the N/S front top radius arm, I gave a few pumps to the grease nipple in desperation only to see rusty water come out at the rubber shaft seals.

I ordered a kit (Metro) which has the shaft, bearings, spacers, rubber seals and end plate, the following Saturday morning I made a start, after about an hour trying to get at the front shaft nut and end plate bolts off I ended up dropping the subframe as there is a fabricated box section bolted to the upper side of the subframe (some kind of impact protection device) which prevents removal of the shaft.

With the subframe down and the box section removed the arm and shaft comes out quite easy, but one of the bearing has collapsed breaking off the lips of the inner race. It took all afternoon to get the broken outer bearing out by turning up different diameter bars as a drift and applying heat. Eventually it gave up and came out. I pressed in the new bearings and built the suspension back up.

Even though there was no play in the driver side; while the subframe was down I removed the shaft and arm to check the bearings. There was no apparent wear but the bearings and shaft were very dry which made me think that they had never been greased. The following day the subframe went back up and the job finished off. My estimation of a morning’s job took to very long days!

The previous owner had the car main dealer serviced from day one with all the service history and stamps in the handbook but I don't think the radius arms were ever greased.

My current TF was a bit of a project and needed a lot of work but while the subframes were out the radius arms were removed and I fitted 2 new radius arm kits; and again the old rollers and shaft were found to be very dry.

It’s unusual to find a post 2000 car with any grease points these days; but if you are a TF owner its worth investing in good quality grease gun, and if you think the radius arms have not been greased for some time; then when you are doing a service keep pumping the grease gun until you see nice clean grease coming out at both ends and wipe away the excess, if properly lubricated the needle bearings should run hopefully for the life of the car!

Refurbing my wheels is taking a lot longer than I expected. £55 a wheel for proper refurb now seems like good value.

Badger wrote: wrote:

Worst job up to now was changing the front top radius arm needle roller bearings on my previous TF.

While doing a service and a pre MOT check I found excessive play in the N/S front top radius arm, I gave a few pumps to the grease nipple in desperation only to see rusty water come out at the rubber shaft seals.

I ordered a kit (Metro) which has the shaft, bearings, spacers, rubber seals and end plate, the following Saturday morning I made a start, after about an hour trying to get at the front shaft nut and end plate bolts off I ended up dropping the subframe as there is a fabricated box section bolted to the upper side of the subframe (some kind of impact protection device) which prevents removal of the shaft.

With the subframe down and the box section removed the arm and shaft comes out quite easy, but one of the bearing has collapsed breaking off the lips of the inner race. It took all afternoon to get the broken outer bearing out by turning up different diameter bars as a drift and applying heat. Eventually it gave up and came out. I pressed in the new bearings and built the suspension back up.

Even though there was no play in the driver side; while the subframe was down I removed the shaft and arm to check the bearings. There was no apparent wear but the bearings and shaft were very dry which made me think that they had never been greased. The following day the subframe went back up and the job finished off. My estimation of a morning’s job took to very long days!

The previous owner had the car main dealer serviced from day one with all the service history and stamps in the handbook but I don't think the radius arms were ever greased.

My current TF was a bit of a project and needed a lot of work but while the subframes were out the radius arms were removed and I fitted 2 new radius arm kits; and again the old rollers and shaft were found to be very dry.

It’s unusual to find a post 2000 car with any grease points these days; but if you are a TF owner its worth investing in good quality grease gun, and if you think the radius arms have not been greased for some time; then when you are doing a service keep pumping the grease gun until you see nice clean grease coming out at both ends and wipe away the excess, if properly lubricated the needle bearings should run hopefully for the life of the car!

i fully agree,its a real pig of a job,its easier simply to drop the dam subframe