Topic

I still havent managed to find out from the previous owner how recently the cambelt on mine was done so its probably best to plan to change it. I thought i might be able to tell from the state of maintenance but i did a basic service last night; though the engine oil and filter looked very recent the air filter and fuel filter were mucky and hadnt been changed for some years..

The cam belt video in the How to is a picture perfect scenario with the engine on the bench, The comments that followed about real world conditions gave me more of an idea of what to expect. For anyone who has done theirs :

There was a comment to use an impact wrench & 22mm socket to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Does this work ok and is 1st gear and the handbrake sufficient to lock the crank ?

Ive ordered a camshaft locking tool. Is that the only specialist tool im likely to need ?

Should the tensioner always be changed as a matter of course ?

Should the water pump be changed at the same time ?

Any other real world advice please ?

I would say it is worth fitting both the tensioner and pump if you haven't a clue when they were last done. Whilst you are in there it's worth fitting the pump I appreciate it means draining the coolant and the worries that might bring, but you have to weigh that up against the worries if a pump you know nothing about fails.
From personal preference, I used both camshaft and crank locking tools. For the expense and reassurance it gave, I was more than happy to send the money. Incidentally, I have seen belts changed without either locking tools used, but cant say I thought it was the way to go.

The crank bolt and the engine mounting bracket were the tightest bolts to release, and in the end I used a socket on the end of an impact screwdriver and belted it with a lump hammer. The engine mount I used a scaffold pole and extensions, but went back to the lump hammer and impact driver. These days I have a compressor, so makes things so much easier.
Overall the job was not as challenging as I thought it might be and whilst you will scrap your hands and push your patients to the limits at times it's a job that's doable at home.

Finally, check out all the videos online and get a clear picture of what's required and go about it in a set sequence and things should be OK. I found my biggest problem was getting the tension on the cam belt to level the camshaft markings up, once I managed to sort how to get the r/hand side of the belt taut it was plain sailing. As always, many on here will help with anything you find challenging.

What crank locking tool did you use? Can a generic locking tool be made to fit or does it have to be a £ 40+ dedicated MG one ?

I think mine was about £25 off eBay. But I've also seen one made from angle iron.

I believe there is a selection of 3 videos going through the belt /pump/tensioner procedure, which I found after I had completed mine and did give some helpful advice which I wish I had beforehand.

I bought a crank locker but got away without using it and I think that's the secret, buy it and you might not need it, don't buy it and you bloody well will need it.
I tried my impact wrench on the crank bolt but it wouldn't touch it, luckily I have a friend with a Milwaukee impact and that did it, doing it up was 1st gear and a hefty neighbour on the brake pedal. I was lucky with engine mount bolts they came out relatively easy and on inspection the threads looked new with no rust at all, if you can give these a spray with release agent as far and as often as you can in advance.

I recently replaced the cam belt on my LE500 while I had the engine out of the car. To be honest, I think that if/when I have to change it again, I'll probably take he engine out again because of the limited access.
The Rimmers video is very good and shows how difficult it is to do, even on a car lift.
Removal of the crankshaft nut was very simple using an impact wrench (although mine is a heavy Duty pneumatic one). For info, I recently bought a 1/2" drive battery impact wrench from Lidle and think it is very good.
Remember to loosen the nut BEFORE FITTING THE CAM LOCKING TOOL. That tool is just to hold the camshafts in position while doing everything else. You may damage the pullies if you apply force through it.