A naughty taillight bulb connection was easy enough but the CO being 500 put paid to a pass. I am not accustomed to my cars failing the MOT so I was a bit dischuffed but philosophical. The good people at Willis Way Motors had to fail it so I could drive it but told me to take it up the bypass bounce it off the rev limiter and coast it for a bit a few times while they rebooted the test machine and it sailed through! Phew!
Nobody at work is going to believe I don't thrash it enough though. I must be getting old!
Been there, done that and beginning to think we all have at some point, I often wondered does a remap make any difference one way or the other?
It's nice to know that some centres (like mine) will give some advice and not just say "hard luck mate", so now it's another trouble-free years motoring???
Little chance of that. I haven't had one of those yet but thirteen months' ticket is always worth having and as it only cost the price of the test, I'll settle for that. Next I have a TF rack to fit, a set of stainless underpipes and a hood to completely recover as well as a new set of seals. Busy times ahead.
Its usually an aftermarket catalytic converter that causes the emissions issue on our cars, OEM ones have a lot more precious metal in them, but the cheaper refits need a really good blow through just before hooking up to the testers sniffer. Don't worry its common and once you know the way around it, most good MOT testers will give you a chance to "warm" the car up a bit before inserting the exhaust tester.
I had warmed the car up fairly hard, getting the oil temperature up to about 130 but It was the burn and coast running that gets the cat hot. Belt it up to the rev limit and then lift right off for ten seconds for ten miles gets it sorted. I was surprised as a check of the plugs recently showed good combustion and both the lambda and HC figures were very good, as is the rear view mirror which does a good job of shrinking the scenery behind the car when required .
