Topic

Please look at the photo and advise me if you think these cheaters need adjusting in at the top I seem to recall seeing quite a few the same as mine, the window when raised is leaving the cheater window channel. If they do need pulling in how? I've tried loosening the 2 bolts at the top and the bottom adjuster and pulling inwards then tightening the top bolts and it makes no difference. The cheater is attached to the glass runner below so in effect your trying to bend the joint between the two. Using the adjuster at the bottom will eventually move it but only at the extreme end of it's range which is clearly wrong and the glass still runs out of the channel because the glass and cheater move in unison.

The cheater must be parallel to the door frame, not sticking out as in the picture.
here is a comprehensive How to adjust the door glass.
Notice one of the first things is adjusting the cheater position door glass adjustment

just a quick observation, does the window leak when its raining ?
If it doesn't I would leave well alone personally.
greatest respect to David's answer from me as usual.

Mike

The cheaters don't leak but everywhere else does unless I juggle with the switches so I thought just adjust the windows. I'd heard the horror stories but how hard can it be, all you have to do is balance the adjusters A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H.
Monday will be day 4 by no means full days my patience just gives out and I go for a walk, on Fri the window stop jumped over and locked the window which has never happened before, so today I refashioned the upper adjuster to give more than the 2/3mm overlap that it had previously. But I failed again to undo the crosshead screw in the window stop so I can rotate it, my brain just doesn't work when I can't see what I'm doing.
I've looked at the cheater mountings and there is quite a bit of adjustment front to back but very very little in or out. So far I have cramped them in as far as I can by releasing the bottom mount then tightening the bolts but twice so far they have crept back out again when the bottom mount is reattached and the door is open/closed a few times. To me it seems that the angle between the lower metal window channel and the cheater needs to be more acute but hopefully this will resolve itself when all the other adjustments are done.

Well the drivers door is all back together and looks goodish, I even managed to fit the rubber trim on the door top next to the B post which previously lifted off when ever the window was raised.
Two problems remain I may need new cantrail rubbers the weather will let me know for sure and the bloody cheater still sticks out despite numerus attempts to correct it. The door had to go back together today as I have other commitments but the passenger door still needs doing in the near? future and has the same cheater prob.
I looked at the cheater in a parts cat and it appears that it's bolted to the glass runner underneath it, this to me implies there maybe some wriggle room on the joint if not could I introduce some by slightly slotting the holes? Has anyone tried this if so with what result? secondly has anyone got close up pictures of this joint to see if it's feasible.

The window adjustment on these little cars is dreadful, and the arrangement of rubber and how the window sits in it, even more so!

I’m still fiddling with mine after changing the roof months ago, either it’s all too tight and it crimps the rubber at the top, or too loose and the wind whistles through it..

Anyway, cheaters, don’t forget it’s attached to the runner closest to the hinge and so you can adjust the angle of the cheater (towards the centre of the car) by loosening off the 13mm locking bolt nearest the speaker and adjusting the bottom of the runner..

Let us know how you get on!


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