Revs at idle are bouncing around somewhat (mine sits at 875), vacuum at circa 39pa is a little low (mine sits at circa 33pa but gut feel is that your vacuum pipes are not leaking) and the no of steps on mime is 26/27 and yours sits at circa 40 steps. Other readings close to mine including the 4 degree throttle opening at idle.
First physically check the IACV pipe from the throttle body is not leaking in air. Check no vacuum pipe leaks but this can be difficult unless you have kit to do a smoke test. Clean the IACV plunger - I used petrol.
Within **Pscan, there are instructions as to how to adjust the no of steps on the IACV. It is an iterative process which you do slowly to allow the engine to adjust to the new settings. From memory, the adjusting (which is done at IDLE) should be carried out with the vacuum pipe OFF and once in equilibrium the vacuum pipe is reattached. I also reset the TPS at the end of the process and double checked via Pscan the readings to ensure all within spec
Everything is in equilibrium at idle when 1. RPM is steady at 875 rpm 2. Butterfly valve is physically open at 4 degrees when accelerator not pressed and the throttle position sensor is telling the ECU that the throttle is 4 degrees open 3. Stepper motor is 26 steps away from closed/engine off position (it is allowing additional air to bypass the butterfly valve - the higher the number of steps the more air is bypassing and of course, the more air that is passing the more fuel is going to the engine - the IACV is making constant adjustments to stabilise the idle).
Note that ALL adjustments are done at IDLE when the engine is HOT (by hot I mean to go on a fast run to get the engine oil up - 85 degrees). At this point, the water temp will be around 95-100 degrees.
* Rover say do not play with the idle screw and it it covered by an anti-tamper cap (which you will have to remove) on basis that the throttle body is calibrated during manufacture such that the butterfly valve is sitting at 4 degrees when the accelerator is not depressed . I did adjust it as it was the only way to get the revs steady at 875rpm and no of steps at 26 and it has made the big difference. The key question is why it got off-kilter in the first place, an unanswered question.
** Often people say that this adjustment can only be done on Testbook. What they forget is that in many parts of the world, finding Testbook is impossible and it will get more difficult as time goes on as this kit goes back to the late 90's. The only option left are the likes of Pscan where utilising all the data it produces allows you to get the engine back into equilibrium - in a way going back to the old days when one made carburettor adjustments to get idling /fuelling before the advent of 'throwaway and replace with new' smart sensors (the shortage of car parts across the automotive sector, including on newish cars, is going to force us to go back to the old days of fixing what we have).