Topic

Thanks for both of your advice. The damage is more than the mark above the hole- the pic hides it a little, so I'll try and source a second hand one.

Jon

So this evening I removed the water pump. Even that turned into a struggle as it had seized on the top dowel. With the pump removed I could see some oxidation around the dowel. Would emery paper be ok to clean this plus the mating surfaces, or is there a better way? I also noticed that the new pump doesn't have the piller moulded into it at the 5 o'clock position to hold the combined fixing/cam belt cover, there is just a hole. Could this be a problem?

Thanks

Having read elsewhere that there are different pumps and they are interchangeable I went ahead and fitted the new one. Fitted the new belt and tensioner today and set the timing, then found the camshaft locking tool stuck in the sprockets. It does move but the act of putting on the new belt and tensioning it seems to have caused it to be a very tight fit.
Has anyone come across this before and if so any tips on removal?

Thanks

I've had that happen, just had to pull very hard to get the locking tool out. When I then rotated the engine a couple times I found that when the crank was on it's mark, the cam's marks were off by a 'tooth'.

The locking tool was made by Draped and there is a hole in the end of it, presumably to aid removal. I put a bar through it and pulled and jiggled but no joy.
Would it be in order to unset the tensioner and then slightly rock the cams with a spanner to try and free it off, or is there a danger of damaging the new belt?

Well having got everything back together, plus new engine mount arm bushes and compliance bush at the end of the trailing arm and cooling system bled, it was time to fire up. She started first time but there is a noticeable metallic ticking from the end of the engine which wasn't there before!
I've read that it could be due to a lazy tappet on cars which have been standing. Mine hasn't been started since end of October. Is there anything else that could cause it that I might have influenced- cam belt, tensioner, water pump and alternator belt are all new.

Thanks
Jon

Anyone?
Grateful for any ideas

Thanks
Jon

Valve Timing is the only possibility. As long as you are confident that is correct, then a lazy tappet is the likely culprit.

The timing seems spot on. I've posted a video to you tube here

I let the engine run for around 10 mins and the sound definitely became less as it warmed up. If it is a tappet would it benefit from an additive to free it up. If so what's the best one? I'm planning to change the oil anyway.

Thanks

Hi . Just on catch up here so I've just listened to the tappy noise . Have you changed the oil yet and how long is it since it was changed ? If you are due a change why not give the engine a flush before you fill with fresh oil . A friend of mine had this very noise on his TF and I gave it a dose of Forte oil flush and after that changed the oil and filter . The noise vanished so all good . I later cut the filter in two and the amount of sludgy debris inside was quite alarming . It only takes a tiny bit of this to stop the tappet from filling and then you get the tap from it .
Let us know how you get on .

John

Wow, that's noisy, but does sound like tappets to me. My wife's F has a noisy tappet(s) that only quiets when being driven but at idle gets noisy again. I was going to investigate and clean or change out the noisy tappet(s) this winter but ran out of time.

An oil change will probably help, using good quality oil. You may consider an additive, like Wynns hydraulic lifter treatment, or an engine flush additive before you change the oil. Best read up on these two options.

Thanks for all your replies folks.
Oil not changed since 2017 although the car has only covered about 1500 miles since. I bought it August 2019. I bought Super Mobil 10w/50 and a Rover filter ready last autumn. I'll read up on flushing/treatment products.

Thanks