TF cam belt change questions

1 month 1 week ago #191785 by rosey
Hi
I'm new to this forum, having bought my 2004 135 TF in August. It came with a service history, however studying the paperwork I don't think the cam belt has been changed since 2008. It's done 53k miles so probably very overdue for a change. I've decided to do the job myself and having studied the various threads on the subject i cant find answers to the following
1. What is the best quality belt kit available, Gates?
2. I can't see that any of the belt kits come with a patchlok bolt for the tensioner. Can the old one be re-use with some threadlock?
3. I don't want to completely drain the cooling system this time, approx how much needs to be drained in order to change the water pump?

Grateful for any help

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1 month 1 week ago #191792 by talkingcars
Hi and welcome to the forum

I can't answer your questions but personally I would do a coolant flush while you have the car apart and fill with freash OAT.

James


Home to black MGZS180, yellow MGZS180, blue MGZR160, green MGF VVC and red MG Maestro T16.

MG - the friendly marque.

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1 month 1 week ago #191795 by BruceTF135
My 2004 MG TF 135 went in for a cambelt (and alternator belt) change last year. My MG Rover mechanic recommended I use an OEM/Xparts parts. These are what I bought:





As far as I remember, he needed no parts other than those supplied apart from coolant, which looked to be no more than a couple of litres. Bleeding at all 3 points obviously but only the one in the engine compartment seemed to actually need it.

I hope this helps a bit.

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1 month 1 week ago #191796 by mowog73
I would go with Bruce's mechanic's suggestion and buy an XPart kit, which is what I have been installing on mine and my wife's Fs for the past 9 years: go quality parts at a good price compared to buying the parts individually.

Mark
95 MGF

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1 month 1 week ago - 1 month 1 week ago #191806 by mgtfbluestreak
I changed my cambelt some years ago on my tf...used gates belts has they are well recommended.tensioner was also replaced..and I used threadlock on my original bolt no problem...plus the alternator belt was replaced at the same time...seized adjuster for the alternator dead cert...has it was only a small m6 pin if I remember right and I drilled it out to accept m8....kits are available to change the design...but it didn't take long to put right so I never spent any more cash...didn't no what all the faffing about by mechanics I spoke to saying it was a pain...the hardest part is taking the engine cover off....auto tensioners are the best arnt they.handy little mirror on telescopic rod makes it easy..I didn't remove the engine mounting I just uunbolted the top 2 pins and jacked the engine slightly to feed the belt through..relaxing feeling knowing that belt is in good condition...oh and that sticker that comes with the belts I filled in the date and mileage and stuck it in the handbook...makes sense so no one has to guess what's going on with the cars history

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1 month 6 days ago #191821 by rosey
Thanks for all your replies.
I was quoted £340 by my local garage which seemed a bit steep. I've just ordered a kit and will make a start on the job next weekend. And yes, whilst I've got the car apart I'll do a proper job on the cooling system!

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1 month 4 days ago #191834 by mowog73
Did you buy the camshaft locking tool, 18G1570, as well?

Mark
95 MGF

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1 month 4 days ago #191839 by rosey
Yes I have one of those. However the price of the flywheel locking tool put me off getting one so for the crankshaft pulley bolt i thought i would try putting it in gear with someone stamping on the brakes, if that fails will try a flat bladed screwdriver in the ring gear.

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1 month 3 days ago #191841 by mowog73
I have never had luck with someone standing on the brake pedal. I ended up breaking down and buying the locking tool.

Mark
95 MGF

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1 month 3 days ago #191842 by BruceTF135

rosey wrote: Yes I have one of those. However the price of the flywheel locking tool put me off getting one so for the crankshaft pulley bolt i thought i would try putting it in gear with someone stamping on the brakes, if that fails will try a flat bladed screwdriver in the ring gear.


It's probably not the recommended technique but a beefy flat-bladed screwdriver in the starter ring is the way my mechanic did it on my car. Up on the 4-poster with the screwdriver in one hand and a breaker bar to undo the pulley bolt in the other. Done in seconds.

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1 month 3 days ago #191851 by rosey

mowog73 wrote: I have never had luck with someone standing on the brake pedal. I ended up breaking down and buying the locking tool.


What happened, did the car just move?

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4 weeks 3 hours ago #191892 by terreneuve

rosey wrote:

mowog73 wrote: I have never had luck with someone standing on the brake pedal. I ended up breaking down and buying the locking tool.


What happened, did the car just move?


The bigger issue is when torqueing up the pulley bolt after the job is done, if not torqued properly the bolt can back off, you don't want that to happen!

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