Topic

I have looked at the fluke meter before...would like one.I'm buying tools all the time but at the moment I've got a stronger fetish to buy a cordless impact gun..perhaps a dewalt 899


..should get one in new year.
Happy new year
If you need any comparison readouts..I'm ready with the meter.

I have a mate who has one, it was the only thing that would shift a drive shaft nut when I wanted to replace one of my rear wheel hubs last year. Awesome bit of kit...but only for undoing things! Always use a trust torque wrench for tightening up again!
I would like to get one too...maybe next year!

Sundance

Building diesel engines all the time you get bored of using ratchets...I've got air guns but hate having airlines about..we have a milwaukee at work very impressed...dewalt cheaper and not far behind on performance. ..I got a torque multiplier for any bolt that wants a fight...but you have to be carefully with them...has the load on the reaction bar can get scary.....I noticed this dewalt gun has 3 torque settings.These guns are bolt snappers has you rightly point out....will be mainly used on the undo setting.

Wowza, that's a tasty bit of kit !
Have a great New year guys , keep safe .
John

Have a nice evening john and you dave..all the best...speak to you next year.

Happy new year, Sundance signing out for 2018:beer:

I think all of our Fs have the same problem........... the stupid alarm system draining away all the charge.
I think the easiest solution is to fit a battery isolation switch, and turn it off when you know you're not going to be using the car the next day or so.

Back in the garage this morning..just wired the multimeter on the negative battery terminal again to recheck my previous readings.This time set on 10a has sundance pointed out
Multimeter between the negative lead and battery.reading has I set the alarm.

And waiting again..drops and stays at this.(not sure how long it took to settle may of been 10sec-20secs)

Today's battery voltage is this.

I haven't any charging/battery problems but like to sniff around now and again...

A lot of the difference in current drain you are seeing is probably down to the method of testing.

There is a known issue whereby some relays do not power down on switch off...This gives a higher current drain.

The act of disconnecting the battery to insert the multimeter to check for load allows these relays to power down, hence you get a much lower current drain reading in this case

Testing the current drain without disconnecting gives a true reading.

I could not double check the load with my multimeter, as it is fused at only 440mA. As one of the best meters available, this is a bit disappointing as all my previous Flukes have had a 10A facility. Can't really grumble as it does have an insulation test (Meggar) and thermometer and other nifty features. I usually use my Clamp meter for current, so the reading I got previously with my clamp or clip on ammeter still stand as current...pun intended!

David makes a valid point here, a shame that you cannot fire the engine up with the multimeter connected. My clip on ammeter will allow this though, so maybe my readings are more of an accurate test for now.
I would still like to see another clip on ammeter test to compare with my readings, or test another TF with my ammeter.
PS checked this morning my battery at 11.64V before I fired the engine up.

Sundance

Might see if I can borrow a clamp meter for tomorrow night. ..it's a good learning curve.

Well ..borrowed a meter with a clamp and put it on the positive...lead..wasn't what I was expecting...once I set the alarm I could see the reading change but it seemed to be dancing around a bit rather than a steady reading...or is that something to do with sensors scanning the car for intruders.
Reading with alarm on.



Don't want to give anyone any false readings ...just interested how to learn how to check the electrical system using meters ...so please take in to account I'm a redneck with multimeters.