Topic

how did you get on ?????

I haven't had chance to look yet. It's still at the garage awaiting a MOT retest. My mate is going to plug it in while it's there just to make sure that there are no fault codes. Hope to have it back this week and then I'll start looking through all the electrical connections and in particular that earth.

good luck,

Thanks! Will let you know the outcome. Be nice to get it sorted as I prefer it my manual MGF.

Ok. F plugged in to diagnostics and various fault codes cleared but two remain - 'Gearbox solenoid fault' and 'GIU coding error'. The first appears to be the gear ratio motor which sits at the front of the gearbox - the one with the connector that usually gets mucky and wet. They can be replaced by removing the valve body from the gearbox, but, we are still going on Graham's advice - more likely to be a faulty connection somewhere.

The second is the gearbox GIU. I did swap the original out and replace it with another, but, it appears that each GIU is individually coded to the main ECU in the car. First job is to swap the original back and see if that makes any difference.

I get it back tonight so I'll get my multimeter out and start measuring resistance across pins and see if that throws anything else up. Otherwise, I'll have myself a winter job of taking the bottom of the gearbox out and replacing the motor.

I'll keep this post updated for future reference.

at least you are giving it a real go, I hope you find the fault and it is an easy fix, I still say it is a wire problem, but good luck all being well you should have a nice motor when you have finished, let me know how you get on eh,

It sounds like one of those jobs that Ed China used to solve on Wheeler Dealers.

I think you are correct on that one ha,

OK - an update on this. I swapped the original GIU (in the boot) back and this has cleared the code error - so it seems that each GIU is coded to the main ECU from build.

Tested resistance of ratio motor at both the GIU and the motor itself. Measuring about 26 ohms (it should be between 18 and 30), so no problem there. Took off all connectors again, cleaned and put them all back. Took for test drive.

Admittedly, in D it's a CVT so there's kind of a seamless progession up to about 40 mph. When it gets to 40 'ish, the revs start to increase with the speed. However, going along at 60, if I take my foot slightly off the accelerator, revs drop right down and it cruises.

Put it in manual. Accelerate, 1-2-3-4 - in gear 4, revs rise and even though I click the paddle shifters into 5 and 6, there is no noticeable change in revs and I cruise at 60 doing about 4000 revs! But... I lift my foot off the pedal slightly, revs drop and then if in '6' and I change down the gears, there's a noticeable change between 6-5-4-3-2-1.

It's odd, almost as if the car thinks I'm putting my foot right down on the accelerator, when I just touch it. Now, I would assume that this has a TPS somewhere and I wonder if that is up the chute?

you have me on this one, never come across this before, just hope it sorts its self out.

I have the Rover workshop manual for the CVT which states:

'The position of the throttle pedal determines at which speed the transmission will up-shift'.

It does all seem to be throttle/ rev related somehow. I definitely felt 5 downshifts when I roadtested.

The TPS is on the side of the throttle body. Try resetting it. Ignition on position 2 .Press accelerator to floor and release 5 times within 30 secs. Wait ,10 secs switch off.

You should be able to see the TPS reading on Torque Obd app