Topic

Don't ya just love it when some cretin uses house shit on their (now your) car! They're nothing but bloody oxygen thieves! Ya wouldn't pi$$ in their mouth if their throat was on fire.

Yep fortunately for me I pointed out this and other issues found on the car during my inspection and managed to secure a decent discount off the price. Discount paid for majority of the remedial works that were needed.

Welp, I might as well start here.. so I’ve owned the F for about three weeks, and, after spending last week mopping, fixing squeaks, changing the broken binnacle and interior mirror, I set about looking for rot and after finding the only bit and chopping the back of the passenger sill I discovered it had ruined the lower outer arch and the outer sill, a bit of fabricating and the lend of a spot welder which looked like it had come off the ark and all is well, even managed to dress two bits of plate and tig off the car to make the nice radius arch profile.. bearing in mind I am NOT a welder this made me very happy.. tiny skim of filler and this week I’ll blow it in.. the rest of the car is now wire wheeled and under sealed to death.. which should keep it rust free for the coming week at least..

Also fitted a new stereo and discovered a previous owner had removed and not refitted the passenger door speaker (cretin) so that’ll need doing next.

Oh and I bought a burgundy hood! With frame.. took my hood off (four bolts, much laughs), drove 50 miles along the M23 / 25 in 30 degree heat and bolted the s/h one roughly in place for the drive home.. joyfully the seals are mangled and I couldn’t even shut the doors so put the hard top on for a few days (which is looking a bit more respectable now I’ve machine polished it).. this morning I’m up and discovering the voodoo that is window alignment..

Things I have learnt so far:
1) start with the door alignment
2) make sure the seals aren’t knackered
3) the window tucks into the seal, and doesn’t sit on it.. however there are almost zero pictures of this!
4) make small adjustments, I almost broke the glass after winding the stop up and slamming the door.. live and learn! (HA!)

Pics when finished of course.


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Ah... the joys!

“Joys”…

Roof sorted, doors back together including the missing speaker! No squeaks..
I got a bit bored and the weather is nice (and my front end is grinding like a lapdancer with bills to pay..) so I’m just doing the front discs and pads.. what a fun way to spend a sunny day!


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Fitted an LED boot light made from an airport fog measuring system and revised the coolant level alarm wiring. Checked tyre pressures which are stable and the ride height. Just waiting for the rain to wash the Sarthe dust off.

Edit.. by ‘doing’ I meant fruitlessly hitting the disc with a hammer while it laughed at me.. both sides.. gear puller on order.. I’m off for a steak and a beer.. stupid cars..


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I spray the disc at the hub with Plus gas and use an SDS drill in chisel setting to rattle it for a minute or so close to the hub centre.
It soon gives up.

minimax wrote: wrote:

I spray the disc at the hub with Plus gas and use an SDS drill in chisel setting to rattle it for a minute or so close to the hub centre.
It soon gives up.

I’ll give that a go.. I covered it in plus gas and gave it as much of a bashing as I could last night to get the loose rust out.. I’ll attack it again today and try the sds trick! I also bought a gear puller so I’ll add some preload onto it beforehand.. fingers crossed!


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I would save the gear puller as if the disc is pulled unevenly, it may jam on the hub. Hitting the outside of the disc looks like it gives the best leverage but hammering at the hip flange, not too hard, will break the rust bond. We are all assuming that you have found and removed or at least beheaded the retaining screws.

minimax wrote: wrote:

I would save the gear puller as if the disc is pulled unevenly, it may jam on the hub. Hitting the outside of the disc looks like it gives the best leverage but hammering at the hip flange, not too hard, will break the rust bond. We are all assuming that you have found and removed or at least beheaded the retaining screws.

Agreed, but I think the gear puller would give an even force and probably prevent it getting wedged halfway.. I’m going to use just a little preload and do as you say, hammering at the hip flange. retaining screws were the first thing out, shockingly two beheaded but two came out whole! (With gentle persuasion and a bit of ‘in one, out two’ unscrewing) just to add, these are the rustiest discs I’ve ever encountered! (And I’ve owned some rusty old heaps!) thanks for the input too, it helps when you’re sat there fighting something and wondering if you should try something else!


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minimax wrote: wrote:

I would save the gear puller as if the disc is pulled unevenly, it may jam on the hub. Hitting the outside of the disc looks like it gives the best leverage but hammering at the hip flange, not too hard, will break the rust bond. We are all assuming that you have found and removed or at least beheaded the retaining screws.

I tried it all.. however.. there was only one way these were coming off..

However! Refurbed my calipers (sorted the sticky drivers slider too, I used the dremel with autosol on a felt cylinder to clear the bore on the caliper side!) and got all busy with the front end, cleaned up everything with a wire brush and then hammerite / undersealed / stone chipped / greased as appropriate… and removed the splash guards from the front wings, jet washed the crap out of the way, waxoyled the sills (after finally digging out the gun and long extension) and all up the inside of the arch.. if nothing else, I will never rust, I’ve got that much on me very pleased / surprised it’s all solid under there.. replaced both guards with stainless screws, undersealed the front crossmember too, fabricated some spacers and fitted mids in the doors in the original locations , fixed the windbreak, aaaaaand washed it!

New brakes are the dream.. at least I got a pack of ten grinding discs so I’m ready to do the rears

Nice relaxing Sunday……

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