02 TF 160 rear end refurbishment

7 years 3 weeks ago - 6 years 8 months ago #133085 by Argen69
First some history
One of the key reasons for buying the TF was that my wife would not let me add a super charger to my 1380 A series classic RSP cooper. 100bhp in a mini is good, but another 25-40 would have been better!

After researching the options, it obviously had to be a 160, so after a long search we found a reasonably good example in Cambridge in spring of 2011.


:drive: We had a very enjoyable summer in it, but all the time I was researching improvements.

So over that winter I dropped out the front sub-frame and refurbished it as a practice run for the rear when it inevitably became necessary. The planned list of parts included poly bushes, Spax adjustable dampers, upper and lower ball joints, new TREs and braided brake hoses. While I was at it I also fitted stainless coolant pipes and a replacement radiator as the existing one was found to be breaking apart at the bottom.
I also decided to have the cam belts and water pump replaced, by a local garage so that I could be confident that no HGF would be looming on the horizon.

Since then I did very little to it until spring 2013.
I fitted a B&G coolant alarm, and in doing so found early signs of mayo. :hgf:
I’d taxed it the day before. Bugger! :(

Russell was called out, confirmed my worst fears, and diagnosed the cause as a leak due to the new wide stainless hose clips not creating a good enough seal. Tightening them up seemed to resolve the leak, so Russell very swiftly replaced the head gasket. £340 gone. Took it for a spin and all seemed good.
Next day I went the garage to find a soaking wet floor, and no coolant in the car. :bat:


Looked like the 13th year of this century was going to be a fun one!
I inspected both coolant hoses, and found a nick in one, where it was rubbing against the clutch slave bracket, and decided to replace both, another £55 gone. Russell was called out again to refill the coolant and confirm all leaks were gone. He only charged me for the coolant, another £25.

I don’t mind spending money on cars but nearly £600 had been spent in 3 weeks and I’d only done 10 miles in it. Grrr. :doh:
Anyway it was fixed just in time for the MOT, which it then dutifully failed. Aghhh! :omg:

Both rear tyres (original Good year GD2s) were breaking up on the inside facing wall, and the brake pipes were corroded.
Well they do say bad things come in three’s!

After a bit of researching I opted for Toyo’s @ £188 for the pair via Black Circles, and replaced the corroded brake pipes, and whilst I was at it replaced the rubber bake hoses with braided ones. Total expenditure was now around £900 including the road tax and MOT. An expensive start to topless motoring in 2013!

But there was one more point on the MOT, an advisory notice of corrosion on the rear sub frame. The guys at the garage I use had asked me, at each MOT since the front sub frame refurbishment, when I was going to make the back one look as good. But this time they put in writing! :vulture:

So now the summer has ended, and the tax has run out, it’s time to get started.

This is what the corrosion looks like


You can see corrosion is also starting on the floor and heal board

And the underside of the body where the brake pipes are attached


None of this is serious, but addressing it now should ensure the car lasts another 10+ years.

My planned improvements are:-
• Stainless Back box (probably a Daytona)
• Spax dampers
• Poly bushes
• Induction upgrade (not sure which one yet)
• Wheel bearings (because this year the car has been very fidgety at motorway speeds. Neither the new tyres or a 4 wheel alignment fixed this)
• new TREs and upper ball joints

Wish list (if Santa is kind)
• 4 into 1 manifold and sports cat
• Drilled and/or grooved brake discs and uprated pads (probably EBC)

Saturday 26th October
Gave the car a wash, as there is nothing more annoying than extra paint scratches due to dirt being ground in whilst working on the car.

Read through CJJs www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/22-cjj-s-guid...bframe-how-to-remove
Attempted to remove bumper, but found both torx bolts to be well and truly stuck. Attempts to apply WD40 and lots of turning force simply resulted in the bumper flexing.

It was difficult to see from underneath but I could tell by touch that the brackets into which the bolts go were bending. So the boot liner came out and I undid the upper bolts. This allowed me to pull the top of the bumper out so I could see what was going on with those torx bolts. Lots of rust, no surprise there then! I doused them in WD40, and resolved to have another go in the morning.

Sunday 27th October
Torx bumper bolts still won’t budge without risk of breaking the brackets off. I could see that it should be possible to undo the bolts that attach the crash cans to the body. 20 minutes later and the bumper was finally off. I was then able to saw through the bolt in-between the crash cans and the bumper, and finally the 3 components were separated.
2x Torx bolts (or stainless equivalent) add to list of parts required
You can see in the picture that the bracket is just folded over at the edges to give some strength, which is probably ok, when the bolts are new.



I will drill the bolts out, and weld in (but need to learn how to weld) some additional strength so when I attend to the rust on the crash cans.
An inspection of the rear if the car that was behind the bumper highlighted and number of arrears of corrosion, the flanges of the crash cans had left a lot crust behind

In case your wondering; I put the masking tape on to protect paint work when I was takingthe bumper off .

There is also some corrosion on the offside



Next I wanted to remove the hub nuts whilst the sub-frame was still in the car, as the front ones had proven impossible to-do without the weight of the car to work against. Surely it would be easier this way!
So the wheels came off and the centre caps were removed, but not before two trolley jacks had failed. One of which decided to squirt it’s contents all over the inside of the hard top, which was stood in it stand on the other side of the garage. :nonod: Out came the cleaning materials, and 20 minutes of unplanned valeting later, it looked like it still needed another clean. This was shaping up to be another great day. :bang:
The hub nuts were un-staked, and the wheels went back on. 32mm impact socket and short extension bar went on to the end of my 600m ½” breaker bar. Then the grunting and heaving started. Crack. Oh shit, what broke?….
.. nothing, the nuts loose, hooray! :woohoo:
That was the near side done.

Confident that it was difficult but not impossible I moved to the off-side. Lots of grunting, heaving and expletives resulted in a knackered back, and a hub nut that was laughing at me. Grrrrr, time to call it a day. :rant:

Ordered a longer breaker bar. Expecting it to arrive Tuesday or Wednesday.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121118034959?ssPageNa...id=p3984.m1439.l2649

Monday 28th October
I have the week off as it’s half term, and we had arrange to visit relatives. My uncle worked for AP Lockheed, and all the companies it became until his retirement about 8 years ago. He has a Herald Vittesse, a 1946 Riley 1 1/2 RME, and a garage full of tools, which he has been gradually donating to me on long term loan. Of course we got talking, and he lends me a 1m long pole to go over my breaker bar. :woohoo:

Tuesday 29th October
Time to attack that near side hub nut again! Pole goes over breaker bar, heaving and grunting is followed by another crack, with me face planting the floor shortly after. If the wife had been watching she’d have been doubled up in fits of laughter.
This was the result
:spank:

But I was determined to achieve something, so the car went up on axel stands and I removed the exhaust, and cat. This took the rest of the day as the bolts at the cat to back box end had rusted so much that they had become one with the cat and no nut shaped objects were anywhere to be seen.
So I decided to grind the studs on the back box side off and then drift the remainder of the bolts out.


This was successful, but I think I have bent the flange on the cat. Looks like an item is moving from the “wish list” to “needed” list then.
You can see how badly corroded the nuts were in this picture


At the other end (cat to down pipe) the top two bolts came undone ok, but the bottom one was had well and truly corroded on. Out came the angle grinder again.
Once the exhaust was off I tackled the heat shield, the bolts were again totally seized so I sawed the ends of in a vain attempt to make removal easier, but both just snapped off.
As access was now good I also removed the ARB
The corrosion doesn’t look too bad here


Wednesday 30th October
Decorating the spare room.

Thursday 31st October
I started to step through CJJs guide. what a difference it makes when someone has done the hard work already :broon:

Made one change in the procedure; undid the coolant hoses at rear-end rather than the front as they need to be done anyway.

Found 1 correction:-

You push the red plastic in!

And a difference; The 80Amp fuse has a cover

which has to be removed by sliding it up

You are then able to undo the screw which secures it in position

Note: wherever it’s practical I put fastenings (screws, bolts, etc) back where they come from so I don’t end up with too much “where did that come from?” head scratching. All others go into labelled resalable bags.

And finally as I had the B&G coolant alarm I removed it’s connection to the reversing light above the gear box.
Once I got to the point with the paving stone I decided that was a good place to stop.

Friday 1st November
Completed CJJ’s steps up to the wood work lesson, and skipped forward the other connections CJJ found as he was lifting the car over the sub frame as a wasn’t going to be undoing the sub-frame until that hub nut was released.

I noticed this sensor, which is forward (when looking from the rear of the car) of the expansion bottle.


Anyone know what it’s for? :-?

Just as I was packing up the postie arrived with that longer break bar I ordered. Better late than never!
Lots of grunting and swearing later, the nut was still firmly in place, an old trolley jack handle I was using was now shaped like a banana, and I didn’t want to risk breaking the new tool or myself. :bat:

Are these drive shaft threads handed? No mention in CJJs guide for replacing the hubs or in my F/TF workshop manual. Time to reach out to the T-Bar folks for some help. David replied that they are just damn tight.

Had a look on e-bay, and found these
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-METER-LONG-3-4-DRIV...&hash=item46153a3278
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-drive-carbide-ste...&hash=item335f2d7891
and the company is only 30 miles away.

Saturday 2nd November
Called PJ Allsorts, both items in stock, and can be collected from them.
Also decided I need one of these for bleeding the brakes, once the job is done.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-4-drive-carbide-ste...&hash=item335f2d7891

Got back home around 2pm having done some other shopping chores. Then put another coat of paint on in the spare room.

4pm time to break out the new toys.

The socket was a very tight fit as the outer edge was fouling, but at least the breaker bar did not bending. 5 minutes of heaving and swearing later and another old trolley jack handle was bent like a banana as was a wheel stud. :rant:

I decided to put the wheels on and drop the car back down of the axel stands.

Damn, the socket was also too wide to fit through the centre of the wheel.
Glad I checked that before completing the drop down from the axel stands.

Time to give it up as a lost cause? :bang:
Never!

I wandered around the garage wondering what I could use as a stronger brace, and spotted the broken breaker bar. Offered it up, but in conjunction with the ¾” 32mm socket it was too thick.
Ok, might as well try the new ½” breaker bar again, what did I have to loose?
Heave, grunt, bend, crack.
Shit I bust something again….
No
Noo
Nooooo

The nuts come undone. :tada:

Yes!
Time for :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
I packed up and went in.
I’m back at work Monday so the next instalment will be next Sunday at the earliest.
The following user(s) said Thank You: psymon, David Aiketgate, Leigh Ping, KentJohn, Andy Lawrence, cairnsys

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7 years 3 weeks ago #133093 by John Pell
That was a better read than my classic car magazine :drive:
Only wish I had the space to work on my F

Work to live don't live to work.
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7 years 3 weeks ago #133097 by bensewell
Very good writeup. I like watching other's projects. Keep up the good work.
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7 years 3 weeks ago #133117 by cjmillsnun
The sensor is the engine bay temperature sensor and is used to control the engine bay cooling fan.
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7 years 2 weeks ago - 7 years 2 weeks ago #133645 by Argen69
Hi all, here's todays update. Not many pictures this time.

Sunday 10th November
My plan for today was to remove the brakes and suspension components.

The first thing I did was to completely remove the hub nuts.

The one on the left of the picture was the one I had difficulty removing. As you can see the face of the flange has corrosion which is probably why it was more stubborn than the off side one.

Next I moved onto removing the brakes. Starting on the O/S I undid the screws which retain the disks to the hubs (both sides). It was necessary to use an impact driver for this. One was missing on the near side.
Returning to the O/S I undid the braided hose, expecting only a little brake fluid to come out, as I had applied brake hose clamps the previous week (you can see the blue handles in the picture further down). Unfortunately these turned out to be ineffective, so I place a jar underneath and turned my attention to the near side.

I started by disconnecting the handbrake cable, by removing the R clip and knocking the pin out. This is where I noticed a difference with the O/S, more about that later. Then I removed the clip which holds the cable into the bracket. It was well rusted in place, but my large pry bard soon had it off. It was also necessary to knock the cable through the hole with a few light taps of a hammer via a pin punch, being careful not to damage anything.
With the cable out of the way I removed the bracket from the calliper by undoing the 2 bolts. Next I undid the carrier and pulled the calliper assembly away from the disk. I removed the brake pads and then bagged them up with the R-clip, pin and bolts. I decide to tie the calliper up out of the way and come back to disconnecting it when the brake fluid had stopped dripping out of the pipe on the O/S.
Off came the brake disk, and now I could see the remains of the missing retaining screw, so that’s going to need drilling out and re taping before reassembly. Finally I undid the bolts the retain calliper carrier.

Next I set about loosening all the nuts and bolts on the hub assembly, just a quarter turn. This enabled me to make sure all would come undone, whilst still having some stability to work against.
Before I did the upper ball joint and the TRE I cleaned up the tread with my Dremel type tool, as they were rather crusty and as there is no bolt head the other side can prove troublesome when the nut jams on and the whole lot spins around.


I also cleaned them out in case I need to use a torx driver. Both loosened off OK, so it looked like it was going to be a piece of cake removing the hub.

I then undid all bolts and nuts until they were nearly out. This included the bolt that secures the shock to the upper arm. Unfortunately the nut on the ball joint, got stuck, and I shattered a torx bit whilst trying to remove it :oops: . To complete removal I tried using my trolley jack to push the taper back into the arm, but even when I had applied enough force to lift the car slightly off the axel stand, turning the nut simply rotated the ball joint :rant: . I’m planning to replace these, so out came the hacksaw.
I had better luck with the TRE. That remained firmly stuck in taper, so once the nut was removed it was necessary to use my scissor type bolt joint separator.
The other bolts and nuts were then completely removed, but the hub did not want to get go of the drive shaft, so a very old pulley puller donated by some years ago by my father in law was used to persuade it otherwise.
By the time this was done the brake fluid had stopped dripping, so it was able to undo the banjo union and complete remove the calliper

Once the hub was remove, I focused on the upper arm. The bolt securing the shock was fully removed, and with the aid of my large pry bar, a large lump hammer and pin punch the shock was separated from the arm. The bolt retaining the upper arm was then removed and the arm with drawn.
Finally I removed the trailing arm link assembly. But this proved a challenge also, as I was concerned the ½” T50 Torx bit was either going to break or damage the bolt. So I decided to have a go at it with the air impact wrench I had on loan from my uncle, and after a slow start, this did the job a treat.
The result looked like this.

Note the cable ties holding the drive shaft up to prevent damage to CV joints.
All components were labelled and placed in a box. Once side done time for lunch :pop:

Returning to the Off Side I pondered how I was going to remove the R-Clip and pin that were on the other way around.

According to the picture is step 15 of this how to www.the-t-bar.com/en/forum/54-how-tos/10...ipers-how-to-replace it is the correct way around, but was much more difficult to deal with, so I will be putting it back together the wrong way around.

The R-clip was well and truly mangled but came out with a good strong pull. There was no way to tap the pin out with a hammer and pin punch, and I couldn’t leaver it out as there wasn’t much to work against. So I tried using a G-clamp and small socket, the socket being placed over the head end of the pin, so that as I tightened the clamp the pin would be pushed through into the socket. After apply a lot of force it was clear the pin was going nowhere, and I was risking turning it into a rivet :nonod: . So out came the cobalt drill bits and electric drill. Having checked the size of the good pin from the near side, I centre punched the end of the pin, and then started by drilling all the way through with a 3mm bit, followed by 4mm, 5mm and finally 6mm.
With that done I followed the same steps as before to remove the hub on the off side, with the same difficulties! I had placed my trolley jack under the hub to apply upward pressure on the upper ball joint taper, before I tried undoing it, but the nut still jammed and I had saw that one off also.
Again everything was labelled/bagged and boxed up. Then it was time to pack up and go in. :woohoo:

This weeks question. How do I remove the drive shafts at he gear box end? I have a toll for doing it on the mini.
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7 years 2 weeks ago #133651 by Davem
Well done :broon: :broon:

[IMG]ht
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7 years 2 weeks ago #133652 by cjj

Argen69 wrote: Tuesday 29th October
Time to attack that near side hub nut again! Pole goes over breaker bar, heaving and grunting is followed by another crack, with me face planting the floor shortly after. If the wife had been watching she’d have been doubled up in fits of laughter.
This was the result

:spank:


Yeah.

My faithful and trusty breaker bar laid down it's life for Tracy's car in Italy. It died the same way.

Damn, I miss that breaker bar. :(
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7 years 1 week ago - 7 years 1 week ago #134295 by Argen69
Saturday 16th November
The sub-frame was coming out this weekend, but before it did I had some jobs to-do.

First off I removed the drive shafts. I started by placing a container underneath to catch any gearbox oil that leaked out. Then with my smallest pry bar I had a go at the N/S one.

Note: I’ve positioned the pry bar against the head of a bolt, to avoid damage to the sub-frame.
I found that it moved but would not come out. I had, however, made enough room to get a larger pry bar in. And with a pop it was free.

I then cut the cable ties that were holding up, and carefully withdrew it.
Once out I bagged it up to keep the moisture off it as much as possible.

The same process was repeated for the O/S.

Next onto the lower arms. This was simply a case of removing the tape from the apertures, and undoing the bolts. I couldn’t get my finger in to retrieve them, but I found that I if I continued to turn them whilst pulling lightly to one side they wound themselves completely through and I was able to extract them still in the socket.

Next I had some wood work to-do. I don’t have a router so couldn’t exactly copy what CJJ did, so I got a scaffold plank and added some additional bits of wood where necessary to spread the load.

Next I got this out of the loft.

and I took the wheels off, as they had all been damaged at some time in the past, and looked like this.

After a bit of hammering they were round(ish) again.

Believe it or not they have roller bearings, so I was hopeful that they we up-to the job planned for them. The castor units were removed from the board and the wheels reinstalled.

I then measured the width of the sub frame and marked it up on an off cut of kitchen work surface (the bit I’d cut out to put the sink in). Then I popped of the tool station to get a bag of M8 coach screws, a small pipe cutter and some 10mm copper elbow joints.
The castor positions were then marked up so that they would be directly below the sub frame. Holes were drilled and the castor units were bolted on with the M8 screws.
I now had a moveable trolley to drop the sub frame and engine onto. End of day one. Time for :beer:

Sunday 17th November
I started the day by replacing the radiator in the utility room. It wasn’t getting hot despite having been bled so I concluded it must be slugged up, and anyway I had a larger one to go in as it’s been cold in the kitchen in the winters since I refitted it and removed the radiator to make space for some tall units. A couple of hours later, the pipe cutter elbows had enabled me to extend the pipe work and the job was a good’un.

Back into the garage, with my reluctant son, and we got out the new trolley jack I’d had to buy after 2 had failed. I decided I need something a bit more heavy duty this time, so I got this one.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171028680739?ssPageNa...id=p3984.m1439.l2649
After one successful test run it wouldn’t work again. I followed the bleeding instructions 3 times to no avail. Then I noticed a little yellow sticker on the piston, which had some other instructions for bleeding which worked a treat

We lifted the car up a little more, and placed the newly created lifting plank under the car and let it back down onto the axel stands. Next we lifted the new trolley I’d made the day before into position to see what would might get trapped. I had anticipated this and had a length of 50mm x 50mm to hand. This was measured up and the cut to size.
With the trolley positioned on the floor below the sub frame it was time to lower the car down. This was done by my son and I operating a trolley jack at either end of the plank. I was not happy with the angle it was at, once the weight was down, so we dropped the front end down from the axel stands, and then it was spot on.
Time to remove the bolts from the sub-frame mounts, starting with the front one. These were well rusted.

My socket just slipped, rounding the 1st one off. So I purchased at set of impact sockets from Halfords, I got home and open the packing to find 2x 12mm sockets, and no 10mm. Typical! :rant: Back to Halfords again.
Back with a full set I had a go with the air impact wrench. Nothing happened :bang:, so out came the breaker bar, and as expected the head sheared off! In then end only 1 of 4 came out. The ones at the rear we much easier, they were not rusty and I could see the ends of the bolts so I’d been better able to douse them with WD40.

The body was slowly jacked up, as I made frequent checks for anything that might still be connected.

(At last you can see that homemade trolley.)

There was a clip that holds the accelerator cable in place, next to the oil filler.

And a cable clip for the main engine loom.

And finally the air box rear inlet trumpet which I expected to be attached to sub frame as the front one was, but it was actually connect to the body below the inlet manifold. So that’s going to be interesting to put back!

I eventually had to stop lifting as the front bumper was getting closer to the ground. So the front end was lifted back onto axel stands, and the lift at the rear could recommence.

Eventually it looked like this.

Sorry about the quality of the picture.
Any way you can see that the it was still not high enough to pull the engine out the back because of the high engine top pipe. But that wasn’t the plan anyway.
The reason I built the trolley, was 1) so that it would all be a little bit lower, and 2) so I could pull the engine and sub frame out sideways!

Job Done. Packed up and went in for some dinner.
No :beer: tonight as I have to get up early to catch the Eurostar to Brussels for work. But you can bet I'll sample some of the very nice :beer: while I’m there!
Next update in 3 weeks time, as we have friends over next weekend, and it’s my son’s 15th birthday, and my mother’s 70th, the weekend after.
The following user(s) said Thank You: David Aiketgate, Tourbillon, KentJohn

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7 years 1 week ago #134299 by Davem
Well done. Thanks for pictures :broon: :broon:

[IMG]ht

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6 years 11 months ago - 6 years 11 months ago #135228 by Argen69
It's been a busy birthday weekend so I only managed to squeeze in a couple of hours spannering this morning.
I continued to strip components from the sub-frame, and have managed to remove the trailing arms, front mounts and damper from both sides.
The trailing arms came off with out bother, though I did need to use a bungee to hold them in the right position to centralise the nut.
I was expecting trouble with the dampers, from my past experience doing the front sub-frame. Sure enough one of the nylonic nuts decided it wasn't going to budge so it was introduced to the nut splitter.
The ends of the sub-frame mount bolts were good and crusty...

...but a couple of minutes attention with the electric drill and wire wheel cleaned them up nicely. Some 3-in-1 and couple of break bars persuaded them to come undone.
I had hoped to get the rear mounts off also. There was not enough room for the drill and wire wheel so, wire brushing by hand was necessary. I managed to get one full turn on the first one before it started to jam, and 16mm socket began to slip. :doh:
I was running out of time, so elected to pack up, and go and get ready for our nice Sunday lunch out.
I've now order a long reach 16mm impact socket, ready for renewed attempts next weekend.

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6 years 11 months ago #135293 by BarryD
Tremendous work there... and a good read. I've not looked at the underside of mine but I've been assured it's all been done :)
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6 years 11 months ago #135733 by Argen69
Saturday 7th December
I Spent 3 hours more stripping down the sub-frame. As I haven’t (yet) got an engine crane I had to come up with a plan to take the weight of the engine off the sub-frame so that I would be able to undo the engine mounts.
With a trolley jack on the front sub-frame jacking point, another on the rear, and a good old scissor jack on the engine side I was able to lift it enough to insert some off-cuts of 2“x2” under the sump and gear box.

As a result the sub-frame was hanging from the engine, but there was not enough room to remove the exhaust, so a second lift was required and the 2”x2” that had been under the sub-frame were added to the stack.
Next I the removed the clutch slave and it’s supporting bracket, both are going to need a good clean up. I also removed the lower gear selector cable bracket, and sump to sub-frame “torque tamer”.

Next to separate the engine and sub-frame. Starting on the gearbox side I undid the bolt in the centre of the mount (no 22), which released the sub-frame. Next I undid the four bolts securing the buttress to the sub-frame. This was very hard work despite me soaking them in WD40 every weekend for the past 4 weeks, and cleaning up the exposed thread with a wire brush. Several times I had to place my feet in the suspension tower, and pull back with my longest break-bar, like a member of the oxford rowing team.

Moving to the other side I removed bolts 10 and 12 and put the rod assembly to one side. Next I undid nut (7) from the mount. Attempting to undo the bolts that hold the restraint (27) resulted in one shearing. :rant:

Rather than doing the same with the other, I decided to undo the 4 bolts retaining the alloy buttress to the sub-frame. Again the long break bar and rowing action was required.
Finally I undid the bolts (25) and removed the bracket (24) from the gearbox.
This was the result.


I wanted to remove the rear sub frame mounts but the 16mm impact socket I had purchased was too small :oops: .
So I called it a day, as I had some chores to-do, and wanted to go to the local motor factors and get the correct 18mm long reach impact socket.

Sunday 8th December
Only had a couple of hours free, so I started by removing the sub-frame rear mounts. The new 18mm impact socket gave me the re-assurance that the cracking noises were not the socket slipping. When I finally had one removed I found that the head had not been damaged by a slipping socket. The noises had been coming from the copious amounts of thread lock present.
Seen here with many crusty items I’d removed on the day before.

Now I just need an engine crane or a couple of strong volunteers to lift the engine away from the sub-frame!
Returning to the engine bay I decided to investigate the areas that would need some de-rusting.
There was rust behind the fan, and the casing of the motor was looking rather nasty.

So out it came.

And the air & fuel filter bracket was in a poor state. It’s held in by 3 bolts which are quite difficult to work with, the rear most being obscured by the fuels pipes, so much so I only noticed it after having removed the obvious 2 but was still unable to withdraw the bracket.
With the bracket removed it was obvious that the parts which support the bottom of the air filter box and handbrake cables was in very poor condition. 5 minutes with a drill and wire cup brush and it looked like this

30 minutes later, and the whole bracket was only half done, but it was time to pack-up and go in doors.
The plan for next weekend is to continue cleaning parts, and perhaps even paint some.

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