Topic

I enclose a pic of my sill after giving it a good going over with a drill with wire attachment and fertan (hence the marks all over the paintwork - it'll wash off guv!). All was structurely sound except for the one spot shown which is about the size of a 50p piece. Pictures are enclosed.







Any ideas as to simle fixes? (ie: is this a structural area for MOT or is it feasible to just use filler until the rest of the sill needs replacing? After fertanning the rusty areas and the whole underneath I was then going to waxoyl the inner sills and underneath then think about temporary painting over the fertan areas. However I'm unsure on how to handle the hole...

Tim

I would get it patch-welded to be honest. It shouldn't cost too much if you do the finishing and painting.

With the MOT it depends on how close it is to stuff like suspension/ safety belt/ subframe mountings as to whether it would fail or not.

I can't remember the actual distance, but I remember my Nissan failed an MOT for a rust hole within a certain distance of a safety belt mounting.

PS: where on an mgf are the drain holes in the sills? I want to make sure i clear the fertan/waxoyl from the holes...

If you look along the bottom seam you should be able to see three 1/2 slots. Front middle and rear - you should be able to get a lolly stick or similar into them.

I remember ours were clogged and you could hear rushing water every time you braked.

IIRC it is 30cm from structural points but the sill is a structural part for it's complete length, especially on a convertable, so will need a welded repair and the repair patch needs to be seam welded. However to weld an MOT standard repair patch wont be expensive, especially if you do the prep and and finish it off afterwards.

David Aiketgate wrote: wrote:

If you look along the bottom seam you should be able to see three 1/2 slots. Front middle and rear - you should be able to get a lolly stick or similar into them.

I remember ours were clogged and you could hear rushing water every time you braked.

I didnt know there were drain holes in the cills, one of mine has a large drain hole at the rear end (see picture) the cill was filling with "crap" which was filling up from the front, behind the wheelarch liner because the rubber bung was missing ~ Best thing is to block the holes and fill the cill with waxoil and then take out the plugs after it has set.

Well I can confirm this area is DEFINITELY and MOT failure! Meg failed her last MOT on the same thing both sides so I cut it all out and made a new patch up and welded it all in:

Rust cut out completely and inside rust proofed:


Patch made up and ready for spot welds:


Spot and seam welded in:


Covered in Shutz:


So far no rust showing back! I have to waxoil inside still and want to find some of the rubbery bubble style shutz somewhere!

adamelphick wrote: wrote:

Well I can confirm this area is DEFINITELY and MOT failure! Meg failed her last MOT on the same thing both sides so I cut it all out and made a new patch up and welded it all in:

Rust cut out completely and inside rust proofed:

Patch made up and ready for spot welds:

Spot and seam welded in:

Covered in Shutz:

So far no rust showing back! I have to waxoil inside still and want to find some of the rubbery bubble style shutz somewhere!

You need some Stone Chip coating which is sprayed on with a SHUTZ gun, it is what they used in the factory. You can buy it in aerosol cans from places like Halfrauds. BTW nice tidy repair

bryan young wrote: wrote:

You need some Stone Chip coating which is sprayed on with a SHUTZ gun, it is what they used in the factory. You can buy it in aerosol cans from places like Halfrauds. BTW nice tidy repair

Thanks, will try to find some of that stuff on Monday!

seen the pictures.the rear wing and sill are one panel ana this panel spreads the stress of the rear of the car,to do the job properly you need to cut of the rear wing off there will be corrosion on the inner wing and inner sill.these where never rust proofed at the factory.some garages will simply cut out the bad and weld in new.this is a bodge rear and can make the car weaker.I will send you some photos of a car that we removed the rear wing from.rust is cancer of the metal,it needs to be removed or it comes back more aggressive

dazlightyear wrote: wrote:

seen the pictures.the rear wing and sill are one panel ana this panel spreads the stress of the rear of the car,to do the job properly you need to cut of the rear wing off there will be corrosion on the inner wing and inner sill.these where never rust proofed at the factory.some garages will simply cut out the bad and weld in new.this is a bodge rear and can make the car weaker.I will send you some photos of a car that we removed the rear wing from.rust is cancer of the metal,it needs to be removed or it comes back more aggressive

Look forward to pictures