Topic

After I got my MGTF (LE500) there was some damage to rear boot lock with the flat metal around the key entry being bent and distorted. It gradually annoyed me more and more when I went to open my boot.I wanted to replace the boot lock and to have one key that rules all and not to have multiple keys for the car.There were 2 options. The first option was to buy a whole new car lockset for all key locks in the car from Rimmer’s and fit it. That seemed like a lot of work and expensiveThe second option was to buy a boot lock to disassemble from Fleabay and see if I could switch over the internal parts and keep my original key that rules all locks. To my surprise the second option worked. I thought I would share this in case anyone has a damaged lock and would like to keep to a single key for their car. I have only done this for the boot lock only. It may work for other locks in the car but I would buy a cheap second hand lock from Fleabay to experiment on. I have done a pictorial guide as best as I could do. Hopefully shiny forehead in shots does not cause to much light scatter! 

The annoying lock face    

Remove Clip and take out lock     

Donor Lock before disassembly  

Back of the Lock Barrel      

Remove the retaining clip   

Remove stainless steel lock shroud   

I used a scalpel bleed to go around the outer edge of stainless steel shroud to help bend it outwards slightly without causing to much damage. Be careful with the rubber O ring so that you do not damage this. I then used 2 small screwdrivers to gently pry it off. Hey presto it should slide off.

Lock barrel removal   

To remove the lock barrel put the key fully into the lock and slide the lock barrel out. 

Lock barrel removed 

The brass leaves become flush with the barrel with the key inserted otherwise it won’t come out.

Original lock and donor lock barrels 

Sorry some of the next photographs are back to front as I had done the procedure then remembered to photograph it to explain what I was doing. Pretend the brass leaves are still in the lock for next photograph.

I coloured the lock barrel Red and Green on opposing sides 

Carefully remove the Brass leaves and place onto your paper template so that everything goes back in order when you replace then into your ‘new barrel’ 

Clean your brass leaves and be careful not to lose any of the tiny springs.  

There is an alloy metal pin on one side of the lock that also needs to changed over with the 10 brass leaves. Once you have both lock barrels emptied and cleaned and regreased it is time to replace your original lock brass leaves into your ‘new’ donor barrel. Ensure that the leaves move up and down in the barrel housing with it’s spring. In above photograph you can see where spring sits.Once everything is assembled then put ‘original’ key into lock barrel. All the leaves should move inwards to be flush with the barrel (see below on left side of lock)

Original Key inserted into new barrel with original leaves.  

It is now nearly Beer O’Clock time. Stick barrel back into lock. Until face is flush with lock. It can only go in 2 ways so if doesn’t work first time 180 degree it. Refit retaining clip to back of lock (can only go one way) and slide stainless steel shroud over front of lock and with flat of large screwdriver head go around non visible back edge pressing the metal in so it doesn’t fall off in the future. 

Lock reassembled and ready to go back into car.   

I have kept the old lock in a bag in case I need parts from it in the future. Now stick it back into car boot lid and secure with clip. Refit boot release cable and put key into lock to ensure lock works before closing boot otherwise many swear words will be used. 

Boot lock replaced   

I hope this be a useful addition to all the excellent guides on T- Bar.  

Hope this now makes sense as initial upload editing issues.