Torque Tamer bushes. - How to Fit.

6 years 9 months ago - 6 years 6 months ago #15329 by cjj
First of all, why should we fit them?

An engine causes a lot of vibration when it is running. To combat this, the engine is mounted on rubber mounts to insulate the engine from the chassis and cuts down the noise and vibration.

Unfortunately, this allows the engine to move in relation to the chassis.

When you go to move away from a standing start the torque fed from the engine meets a resistance as the wheels aren't moving. This causes the engine to turn on its axis. Depending whether you are in forward or reverse, this can be seen as the top of the engine moving forwards or backwards while the car is stationary.

If this movement is too excessive it can cause mechanical problems as it stresses hoses/exhausts etc.

It also has an effect on the handling of the car as the engine will move within the car under heavy acceleration or under engine braking. The fast and furious clan have known that this can rob you of a bit of torque when you accelerate away from the lights, so they fit engine stay bars from the engine to the chassis to limit the movement of the engine.

Good news, the F/TF already has one fitted.

Bad news, they are fitted with soggy rubber.

I have had several problems with my car which may be put down to excess engine movement. The can tended to kangaroo a bit when moving in slow stop/start traffic and it has eaten 3 exhaust hangers in the last 2 years. Still to see whether this cures the hanger problem. Only time will tell.

So, where is this engine stay?

It is located underneath your engine and ties the sump to the rear of the subframe. The job of the lower engine stay is to limit the twisting of the engine, but allow some articulation.



I bought the Torque Tamer kit from here http://www.moto-build.com/

And this is what came.



To get at the area you need to jack your car up and put it on axle stands, or put it on ramps, but remember to take all reasonable care to secure the car when you are working under it. Do not just leave it on the jack.

I reversed mine onto some ramps and chocked the front wheels.

Once you are under there you will need a 15mm socket or spanner and some release oil probably as the bolts will be rusty.

I also removed the flexi section of the exhaust for better access.

First undo and remove the bolt that holds the two halves of the bar together.



and swing the rear half down to clear the front half. Now loosen and remove the bolt holding the bush to the subframe mount.



Once the rear half is removed, remove the 4 bolts holding the sump half in place.



Now you can simply take the two halves to a local garage etc and ask them to press the old rubber bushes out.

The larger bush has a metal outer that needs pressing out too.



I thought I would have a go myself.

So I first drilled the rubber mount and started hack sawing the rubber.



After breaking the hacksaw I reconsidered.

A wreckless person who didn't care for the environment or next doors washing would have taken the easy route and burned the rubber out.

So, after I "removed" the rubber.



I used a small chisel to turn over the bushes metal outer over



Which allowed me to use a large socket and the vice to push it out.



I then took the opportunity to wire brush it and spray with hammerite. This is optional



The two polybush halves can then be lubed with the supplied lubricant



and pushed into place.



The centre tube can then be lubed and pushed into place.



and that is one half done.



The second half



I managed to push the rubber mount out using the vice and suitable sockets.



and wire brushed and painted



The new poly bush



was suitably lubed up and pressed into place.



and then the centre tube was lubed and pushed into place.



and that is both halves done.



and as they say, fitting is the reverse of removing.







Once tightened and the exhaust is put back together, take for a test drive and see what you think.

I have only been for one blast and I can definitely feel the difference, for the better.

Even fast gear changes feel more responsive.

There is a very slight increase in vibration through the body at tickover, but this is hardly noticeable.

To me, this is one of those modifications that makes the car feel how it should have done from the start.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Leigh Ping, Branchman

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15343 by David Aiketgate
Nice one, Clive! Another great how-to.

IMO, it's a lot of money for two bushes, or am I being cheap?:dunno:

David
:shrug:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15345 by bryan young
I agree that £50 seems a lot, but good Poly bushes are not cheap, and they are expected to last a very very long time, someone must make them for Moto-Build, so its time to start searching. really good post by CJJ makes it look easy to do.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15346 by David Aiketgate
He deserves plaudits for turning his car upside down to get a better photo!:yesnod:;)

David
:shrug:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15349 by cjj

David Aiketgate;15343 wrote: Nice one, Clive! Another great how-to.

IMO, it's a lot of money for two bushes, or am I being cheap?:dunno:


You're being cheap. ;)

To replace the engine stay with OEM items would cost £125 and they would still have soggy rubber in them.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15350 by cjj

Bryan Young;15345 wrote: I agree that £50 seems a lot, but good Poly bushes are not cheap, and they are expected to last a very very long time, someone must make them for Moto-Build, so its time to start searching. really good post by CJJ makes it look easy to do.


The name on the packaging is SuperFlex

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15365 by bryan young
it is hard to beleive that the OEM part that bolts to the sump is £80 alone (with a soggy rubber bush) £50 is cheap when original replacements are £125, and the bush sets are cheaper to buy from Moto-Build than Superflex direct. thanks again for a superb post.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15369 by cjj

Bryan Young;15365 wrote: it is hard to beleive that the OEM part that bolts to the sump is £80 alone (with a soggy rubber bush) £50 is cheap when original replacements are £125, and the bush sets are cheaper to buy from Moto-Build than Superflex direct. thanks again for a superb post.


No probs mate.

I have also noticed, weirdly enough, that the car now tolerates higher gears. Before if you were going slowly and selected too high a gear it would let you know. Now it just pulls smoothly.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15390 by adamelphick
Hey guys remember we get 5% discount with Moto-Build and also there is 'Autobush' who do a full kit as well in our traders section.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

6 years 9 months ago #15393 by cjj
Autobush only do kits for the F and they don't do the engine mounts.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

4 years 3 months ago #101467 by Nobrainer
I love to dig up an old thread :broon:
I have the engine mounts from a rover 200, polybushed. Anyone know if these will fit my f? I'm sure I could pull them off to have a look, but the moto build site ones look very similar, though they are a different price.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 2.372 seconds