Topic

Using this how to , gain access to the engine.

Chock the front wheels and then jack the rear of the car. Put an axle stand under the subframe. (You may need to remove the road wheel to drill out the bolts)
Now move the jack to support the engine under the sump, using a flat piece of wood to spread the load..
Take the weight of the engine on the jack. This will make the job of removing the mount simpler.

Now, the offside mount for the engine( no8 below) is attached to the engine with two 19mm bolts (no 9 below) into the bracket (no4 below)





Remove the two 19mm bolts, then take 19mm nut(no 13) off the 17mm bolt(12) and slide the bolt out of the bush on the buttress support. (Leftside below)


You will now be able to swing the arm( no 11 above) up to reveal two 13mm bolts(no 3 above) that hold the rubber mount(no 1 above) to the buttress.

It is at this stage that I have to say that MGR's idea of poor quality steel bolts tightened into thread holes in alloy components that are then exposed to the elements is an ideal recipe for having said bolts shear rather than come out. Thanks guys!

I can only advise that you use copious amounts of releasing oil applied over a week or so prior to attempting to remove these two bolts. Best of luck.

Assuming that you manage OK, you will now be able to lift the old mounting out and replace it.



Attach to the buttress with the two 13mm bolts,tighten to 82nm. Then position the arm to the buttress support bush and reinsert the 17mm bolt and tighten the 19 mm nut. Tighten to 88mm.

You can now reattach the mounting to the engine by reinserting the two 19mm bolts and tighten hand tight.

Now let the engine down off the jack and tighten these two bolts to 60nm.

Refit the wheel and using the jack remove the axle stand and lower the car to the ground. Test the engine, then take for a test drive.

In my case the rubber had detached completely from the centre retaining bolt.