Sign In   Register
Introduction
Pinned Items
Recent Activities
  • Update on the saga of the cold TF heater.

    As suggested I returned to the garage to confirm that the 4 way connector was the part replaced.
    They agreed to investigate further.
    The mechanic test drove the car and found that the luke warm heater went cold after a short drive time. After discussions and reference to the online diagrams and information we agreed that when the PRT opens then the hydraulics of the cooling system robs the heater circuit of flow.
    The 4 way connector was removed which revealed that there was no restrictor fitted.
    The garage referred to the part supplier a respected MG specialist and parts supplier who said that they used the connector with no restrictor with no problem.
    It was decided in view of the online advice a restrictor was devised and fitted.
    The cooling system was refilled.
    I carried out a test drive, 20 miles local roads, traffic and a motorway section.
    Everything seemed now to be normal. Coolant and oil temperatures as expected. Heater working and hot.
    The fans did not kick in some traffic.
    Thanks to all who have contributed with advice including those on past forum streams.
    Thanks to the garage. Respect to them for undertaking the investigation and work at no additional cost.
    It just leaves me with one outstanding question?
    The MG specialists seemed to say the restrictor is not needed but without it our car did not operate as it should. The advice from other users is contrary to this.
    Clearly there are images of the restrictor from past parts.
    So who is correct.?
    Thanks

    Sent from my iPad
    1. View Reply
    2. View Thread →
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • Thanks for your response.
    There is no apparent loss of coolant or evidence of coolant in the oil.
    I got a good flow of coolant from the engine bleed and from the radiator and heater bleeds.
    I checked the heater valve operation behind the kick panel from the control knob. Lever travels through 90 degrees easily.
    The main radiator pipes get hot and the temperature gauge never goes above normal reading so the main flow through the radiator appears OK. When the cooling fan cuts in it cools the system fairly quickly and cuts out
    How do I check flow through the jiggle valve. There is clearly no flow through the header tank.
    The system was OK prior to the repair and the fitting of the part that must have been broken during the clutch replacement.
    I can only imagine it was the 4 way connector or the PRT that was broken.
    I have read in one forum that the connector can be piped up incorrectly or be faulty. Is that possible or likely?
    Are there any images of this area available so I can check the pipe connections.
    Thank you for your input. Can’t let this beat me.
    1. View Reply
    2. View Thread →
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
  • MGMiniman created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    2004 TF 135 - my daughters car, her daily driver. The story from the beginning
    Clutch diaphragm collapsed. After some searching found a local garage to replace the clutch in a reasonable time frame and cost.
    Got them to change cam belt and water pump at the same time.
    Car returned with working clutch but with coolant leak. Back to the garage for 3 days “ replacement “ part needed, no extra charge.
    Since then unable to get the heater to blow hot.
    Read all the forum(s)
    So, bled the system from all three points three times. Run 2.5 litres of coolant through the heater bleed nipple.
    Run the engine to operating temperature, gauge mid scale, both main pipes at front and radiator get hot, radiator cooling fan kicks in cools rad and drops out. Gauge still mid scale.
    Checked heater control operates valve by observation. Heater pipes get warm felt through ash tray hole in centre console.
    Turn on fan, blows Luke warm for a short time then blows cold, obviously cooling the matrix.
    Expansion tank level rises with temperature.
    Does not seem to be any coolant flow in the tank when the engine is running, is that correct?
    Is it possible that the “ replacement part” has been incorrectly re-piped? Not sure at this time whether this was the 4 way connector or PRT.
    Any assistance much appreciated. Don’t know where to go next. It can’t be that difficult.
    1. View Thread →
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    0
    Post is under moderation
    Stream item published successfully. Item will now be visible on your stream.
There are no activities here yet
Unable to load tooltip content.
© 2024 The-T-Bar.com All Rights Reserved. Hosted By SEBS IT