Pref

I have taken the car to mechanic to check the camshafts and he said everything was fine there was an issue with temp sensor. I thought finally, it will pass.

But unfortunately it didn't help :/

However I noticed a new thing. When I plug my OBD2 reader and check post cat O2 sensor voltage, it remains almost static around 0.85v however if I rev it to redline couple of times and then keep 5k rpm for some seconds the value start fluctuating between 0.2v and 0.8v. the strangest thing is that when it start fluctuating and I shut the engine off and start it back up the value goes back to static 0.85v, but when it fluctuates and I keep the car running it just keep going up and down without becoming static.

Anyone know what this could mean?

I'm not sure about camshafts, didn't dig into the engine itself. By any chance you have some instructions on how to check them? Would I need to remove the top part of the engine or can it be checked through spark plug hole for example?

Also, another question, maybe related, after digging some more, I noticed that my intake manifold is from vvc. But some pictures had it shown with nonvvc. Could ir be that these one were put into non vvc as well? Or this will be previous owners attempt to upgrade it to vvc.
I have checked and I don't have the vvc brain that sits on the side between the manifold and the engine

Thanks for some ideas. Do you know if it is possible to check if the switch is working? Checking voltage or something like that?

Hi
I have been going through all the post i could find, but nothing helps :/ 
I have 2003 MG TF 135 and cannot pass MOT due to emissions, CO to be precise. I have replaced almost eveyrhing I could, but it still doesn't pass.

On my last try i got these results (translation - measure | low revs| limit | revs > 2000 | limit):
  


I have started with the value being 0.8 or so, but cannot get it past the threshold.

I have currently changed:
Spark plugs - new
Air filter - new
fuel filter - new
O2 sensors new, both
CAT - new (not to the genuine one nap cak10426)
injectors - used but correct for the model (there were blue injectors before, but after a lot of googling i saw that i should have black ones since mine is nonvvc)
Air flow sensor - new

Took 30km drive before the test with 4000+rpm and engine was around 100 C when testing.


The strange thing is that on low revs the value is 0.4 and on high revs it jums to 0.6. Did anyone experiance something similar to this?
I have access to OBD scanner (generic, not pscan) but it doesnt give me much info apart from if i check noncontinuos monitors, there is an issue with Manufacturer defined - Monitor ID MID $06 and $02.
And if I choose Emissions Test in the app, CAT and Oxygen always say NOT PASSED.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated, since i'm starting to lose my hope. 
I have the second exhaust controller disconnected, because it would not open right pipe even when Revs are high. 

I did some more digging and decided to check the SCU, since I read that there are usually issues with it. After opening it, I think I might have identified the issue or some other issue.

Did anyone experience this issue before, where the red thing would blow up? and anyone know what the red things are and if they have any new version of it, that I could buy? since i tried googling the model but didnt find anything except couple ebay listings

Does it always lock and unlock from the first time?

Because for the when it starts making that strange sound it get into a state where I have to lock/unlock multiple times until it stats working again.

HI

I'm a new TF owner and when I got mine it used to have an issue with door lock, when locking with the remote. After pressing the remote it would honk, but then after unlocking and locking again, I would get the 3 blinks. From time to time it would make the 'grrrrr' sound, which after dismantaling one of the lock I found was the deadlock part being broken inside of the lock.

I decided to get new locks for both doors. After replacing then and locking couple of times, I still got the grrr sound right after it tries to lock. When I took one of the locks out, and tried to lock (i have pushed the latch in, so the car would think, the door is closed) it made the sound and then I could not push the door opening lever (white one). I think that somehow the motor doesnt know where it is and it tries to lock/unlock twice. Could this be the case? and does anyone know what could be the solution?

I got the lock from rimmerbros, so they should not be damaged, could they?

Here is the issue in video format ( the grrr sound can be heard from 00:15):