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  • shambo replied to the topic Pektron SCU in Tooltime
    Do you have the EKA code, (Emergency Access Code) for you car? If you do, you can enter it by following the procedure at the bottom of this page link under "How to test the EKA"

    http://pscan.uk/features/pektron.html

    a copy pasta incase you can't access the site:

    How to test the EKA:

    1. Lock the car so that the alarm is on, alarm LED on etc. Remove the fob from your key ring and put it somewhere out of radio range of the car; you want to prove that you can do this with just the key.
    2. Put the key in the drivers door lock.
    3. Enter the first digit of the EKA by turning the key to "unlock" that number of times. So if the EKA is 4321 you turn the key from the centre to unlock and back to centre, 4 times.
    4. Enter the second digit of the EKA by turning the key to "lock" that number of times. So if the EKA is 4321 you turn the key from the centre to lock and back to centre, 3 times.
    5. Enter the third digit of the EKA by turning the key to "unlock" that number of times. So if the EKA is 4321 you turn the key from the centre to unlock and back to centre, 2 times.
    6. Enter the fourth digit of the EKA by turning the key to "lock" that number of times. So if the EKA is 4321 you turn the key from the centre to lock and back to centre, once.
    The alarm siren may go off.

    7. Unlock the door whilst observing the alarm LED. This will also stop the alarm siren.
    If you entered the EKA correctly the alarm LED will illuminate solidly for one second and then continue flashing.

    If you entered the EKA incorrectly the alarm LED will just continue flashing without illuminating solidly.

    8. Wait for at least five minutes, but not more than ten minutes, turn on the ignition and start the engine.
    If you entered the EKA incorrectly then open the door, close the door, lock the door, wait for the alarm LED to flash normally and try again.

    After three failed attempts you must wait ten minutes before trying again.

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  • shambo thanked the user David Aiketgate in the forum post, yellow
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  • Unfortunately it's not going to be that easy, as much as I love the KV6 it just hasn't got what I want from a mid engined car, nor the capability for the power level I'm aiming for :(

    I'm using a ford ST220 V6 and probably an Audi gearbox to start with, converting to a sequential 6 speed dog box when I can afford turbos.
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  • Hmm, food for thought then, maybe use a rectifier to convert the analogue signal from the single wheel speed sensor to a digital one and then feed it direct?

    From what I can find out the EPAS gets 2 signals?  1 for engine rpm and the other for vehicle speed but I can't find out how as there is only 1 wire going to it from the ECU according to the diagram.
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  • TF is a 2004 135 with a good engine and gearbox (will be for sale once my 30 day / post target is reached)

    Metro is a 1988 3 door Mk2 1.3, using the TF front and rear subs in the same configuration to put a V6 in the back.
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  • shambo thanked the user talkingcars in the forum post, yellow
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  • shambo created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I'm using TF subframes with all the suspension and steering parts, including the column and EPAS unit to go into my Mk2 Metro project.  What I'd like to know is, can I use the single passenger rear speed sensor to feed the EPAS with a speed signal or does it need to go into the engine ECU first?  I'm asking because I'm not using the BCM or ECU from the TF for this project so need to find a way around it if I can't feed it directly from that sensor.  The doner TF has no ABS, just the single sensor.  I've found it in the wiring diagram referred to as rough road sensor?  If that's the correct thing I'm looking at?

    Other ramblings for the moment are along the lines of wheel bearings and hubs, I'm looking to use a different hub and wondered if anyone knows, short of me pulling a bearing apart, how thick the inner race is so I can decide whether to turn it out a little or machine down the hub I'm going to be using.  I have a total difference in diameters of 2mm and was toying with the idea of either:

    A - turn down the hub 2mm
    B - turn down the hub 1mm and increase the internal diameter of the bearing 1mm
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  • shambo created a new forum post in Welcome - Introductions please!
    Hi, I'm James from South Wales, Have owned various F's and TF's over the years but mainly here for some help/suggestions while using TF donor parts to build a Metro.

     
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