trevorgetty

Quick addition... so i measured o2 heater and found no voltage.  Fuse13 10amp was fused... fixed now o2 sensor is fluctuating as it should sitting at about 13.5 afr 0.62 volts. Its rich... now the ecu readout shows 0.44v and doesnt agree with the real reading.   Now i think this is because its open loop still.  So i want to concentrate on the other things now and rule them out.   What is crank status not synced mean?   If i pull off cam sensor it starts but rpm is very low.  I assume it wont start at all without crank sensor.  But why out of sync?   Idle status is also showing error i dont know if they are related....

O2 sensor will sit static at 0.44v at ecu if the system is running open loop.  This means all values are defaulted, o2 levels and fueling map then runs rich just as if it was in auto choke during startup which is also open loop.
there are other factors e.g. if ur coolant sensor was stuck saying cold the car would stay open loop and never swap over to read o2 sensor values.  You see what i mean.  Check your other readings and only when the car is up to temp and ready will it swap over to closed loop values.   Another reason is that it drives a heater in the o2 sensor to Heat it up so it can work correctly.  If this relay or drivers doesn't work again it wont go closed loop so check heater values for voltage on startup of car and periodically after.  Ive asked seperately for a list of things that impact open loop decision so i hope it helps if answered.  All mems ecus perform in similar mannor for open closed loop so doesnt really matter if mems1.6 or mems3.  Only real difference is if it uses a relay pack or drivers direct from ecu or bcu.   Tnx.

Correct it does fluctuate 
the reading of 0.44v is actually given out by the ecu itself when in an open loop state.  Effectively during startup before the o2 sensor is up to temp which is something like 500degrees the ecu has to perform in open loop mode.  Otherwise it couldnt use other sensors as they would be invalid.  Its like the old automatic choke in old cars.   My problem is that when it gets up to temp it should come out of open loop and start using the real values from o2 sensor etc.  Any one know the list of items that dictate open loop in the mems1.6 ecu?  Im assuming coolant temp, o2 sensor temp are there any others?  I want to rule them out one by one.   Im gonna swap loom over to test as i think there maybe a strange earth issue.  What i mean is that when starting the car it nearly always starts the car fan. Just as if the car was too hot or the coolant sensor was unplugged after 30s it turns off and works as normal with engine temp turning it on and off.  Unplugging the sensor also turns fan on.  So I'm assuming some fluctuation during startup...  if anyone has any ideas would be appreciated but im assuming some in depth knowledge here or something that has had same issue. 

So i have a t16 mems1.6 engine in my mg zr.  Yes it is converted.
it is a distributor type not wasted spark with the earlier 2gap flywheel i believe ecu is MKC101600. 
now my issue is that i have several invalid status issues in my live data and more importantly the car never leaves open loop.  Now as afr reports 0.44v 14.5 afr but this is a default as unplugging the o2 sensor i see no change and can see a different voltage on the lamda .55v that it reported.  Next i see crank sync is invalid value, and idle error is invalid.  So i dont know what is the cause or if in fact things like o2 sensor are like this due to open loop.  I have a full log i can attach but quick screenshot shows issues.   Ps.  Ive replaced o2 sensor with brand new original bosch square pin type for rover220 coupe from rimmers.  Original one was faulty but as i see voltage from this it seems ok to me?  What does crank sync do? Or do some models like difference between 2 gap and 4 gap flywheel mean not all report this im not sure?  
ive got dual channel oscilloscope on it and can see a crank sensor regular output just fine.  
Other than this car starts and runs fine just running slightly rich at moment which i can see from a seperate wideband guage installed for later tuning.   
thanks trev.

 

Great news, thanks for this instructions....

And its even better that I can program them to have a matching EMS code that means they are interchangable should one fail in the future.

Last question on this subject I promise...
For reference is the same kind of programming / matching available on the pektron set?

Can I follow similar instructions to match any pektron to any ECU assuming I still have a matching fob to unlock / immobilize it first.?

Thanks as always, trevor.

So when I swapped over the ECU, it did as you described it started and died after about 1sec.

So I put in the matching fob and 5AS and it then worked just fine..

So you say there is a learn feature - I believe this could be super useful to me as I have loads of fobs / 5AS units that could be used to pull me out of a hole...


Imaging I have just put in any 5AS into my car just now with a matching fob - how do I pair that to the ECU?
Is this the "Learn EMS" feature you describe and if so can you please tell me the steps to use this feature?

thanks as always...
Trev.