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  • How do I tell if it's a relay?
    When you say Pektron, do you mean SCU? or the Door lock unit? If door is it the Drivers side that controls the Passenger side? Both doors will unlock but not lock.
    What are the standard conditions for the PSCAN diagnostic i.e. active/ inactive
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  • Nik P created a new forum post in pscan.uk diagnostic tool forum
    Hi,
    I have an issue where the central locking doesn't want to lock. Unlocking I can hear the locks trying but nothing on lock. The alarm is set when you press the fob as alarm activates when you open the door.
    At the moment I can lock the passenger door with the pop up button on the door sill, then lock the drivers door with the key before pushing the lock fob button.
    When the fob button to lock is pressed the indicators give their normal three flashes.
    I have tried another fob and same thing. So unlikely to be fob or battery related as the car starts fine, immobiliser seem ok etc.
    The door handles work fine internal and externally.
    Boot lid lock seems ok.

    I don't want to take the door cards off yet, but try to find a likely issue.

    I have looked on the PSCAN and have the following:-
    Door Key Switch= off
    Drivers sill down= Active
    Drivers door sill up= Active
    Bonnet switch = closed
    Tailgate switch= closed
    Passenger door switch= closed
    Drivers Door switch= closed

    So when I switch the ignition on the only change appears to be the Drivers sill down start changing from Active to in active and back again etc

    What is the standard conditions for these readings?
    Is the Door sill down changing from Active to in active normal?

    I have tried the PSCAN locking function when pressed the locking on status tries the mechanism and after thirty seconds and the "machine gun" affect takes place before I switch to the locking off setting and it returns to normal. The pop up sill buttons don't move.?

    Any ideas would be gratefully received.
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  • Ok, I have now inserted new batteries into the "Rover" e bay fobs.
    One works absolutely fine. The other doesn't.
    I will reinstall all the fobs again at a later date.
    The only deviation from the process for "Fob initialisation" was that with one Rover fob I tried to "add" the second fob as part of the same initialisation, rather than enter code and close down.
    So my assumption is you can't initialise and add one then another etc you have to close and then re initialise for each fob you wish to add.
    Pressing the add button probably invalidated the first Rover fob.....well that's what I'm going with...operator stupidity caused by ignorance...;)
    Last post on subject unless any other comments..
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  • Yes, I was relieved when the old spare fob worked, not knowing how many times it had been pressed. (At least a couple for when I locked the original in the boot...) When the75 was being developed the BMW engineers insisted on having a service indicator that could only be reset by an authorised dealer....so you could service your car anywhere in line with EU law but only get the service indicator reset at a dealer...(LE 500 owners know what I mean) It was to be rolled out on all Rover/MG/ Land Rover products eventually. So I'm not surprised there is a cross over/ interference from BMW...:)
    The batteries should be with me tomorrow so will confirm the issue and resolution.
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  • Update on progress.
    I have successfully paired my old fob from a previous write off that had been used occasionally, perfect.
    The two e bay fobs (Rover), all correct spec, the codes were both accepted and the last code generated was correct, but they don't work.
    So my assumption is that being New Old Stock and were produced some years ago now......CR2032 solution is required.....I will buy a couple to try.
    At the very least I have purchased two very expensive fob cases for when the wife's nails go through the plastic bit of the button
    ….:)

    Thanks for all the patience and advice on this.
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  • Thanks.....the code then is the really really small number at the bottom of the bar code and not the CEL C66382 you would think printed in a font that normal people can read with out a micro scope.....The two packs I have (one from and exactly the same year and spec as my new one) only has one bar code and is just about readable under the right light...;) I didn't even notice it...;(
    Thanks....round two tomorrow..
    Yes all keys are 433Hz made sure of that, two button etc .
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  • Hi,
    As suggested I have followed the instructions. EXISTING FOB, HORN SOUNDS, ADD FOB....A message appears saying add 21 digit code and last digit will be generated check last digit is correct.

    The screen appears as attached. There are two buttons on it that appear to be a zero, the other N. If I have the 22 digit code correct it starts with at C66382 etc not zero or N

    So faced with no other clues I can click zero or N and a square of buttons appear ( What is zero or N option?) do I delete and type in the 21 digits or leave the zero or N at the start?

    I can also click in the message square and type in the code....there is nothing to suggest this is correct?


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