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  • Having neither the space nor the competence to do this myself, I eventually asked a garage to replace the servo. Hissing ceased. Brakes just the same. Fuel consumption maybe improved a little.
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  • Thanks all. I shall take a closer look...
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  • The battery is less than 2 years old. The readings I obtain are quite erratic, and don't correlate with the alarm light being on or off.  I will need to monitor this for a while....
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  • GN09MGU replied to the topic Car tyre choice in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I also have the new Toyos. They seem fine, although they haven’t had a great deal of use yet.
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  • GN09MGU created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    There is a constant hissing from the region of the brake servo on my late model TF. Well, constant when the engine is running, that is. The brakes pass the usual servo checks. And the noise isn't new - the car has passed 2 MOT tests like this. Is this normal? I wouldn't have thought so, but of course on my previous, front- engined cars the noise would have been masked by that of the engine itself.
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  • GN09MGU created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I assume this is probably a regulator fault but thought I would post on here anyway in case there is a TF quirk. My battery ran low a few weeks ago due to near zero car use. Charged it. All well. And from this I know the alternator was putting out about 13.8, because I measured it at the time. Today, a few hours after retrieving the car from the MOT tester, I noticed the alternator light was on. Checked the voltage - 13.2. Engine off. Engine back on. Light out. But voltage still 13.2. 
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  • GN09MGU created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    I have posted before about on-going alarm problems, but thought it might be helpful if I posted separately about my findings, after I finally got around to extracting the SCU and sending it to Paul at Technozen.

    The unit had clearly been removed/replaced before because a) the securing strap had been cut through and the unit was secured instead by some cable ties and b) Paul found that two of the relays were not original.

    Paul replaced the other relays, extracted the EKA code, installed a new receiver to correct the poor fob range and ran diagnostics. No errors, but he found that the SCU was programmed to sound the horns rather than the BBUS siren. This, presumably, was the cause of the false alarms from the BBUS siren, which wasn't always aware of the status of the car (locked or unlocked). And he also found that the fog-lights were not enabled, which accounted for the crude after-market switch attached to the fuse-box cover. So, either the original SCU was never programmed correctly for my car, or a replacement was installed at some time without proper re-programming.
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  • An update.... Second time I tried re-inserting the fuse the alarm sounded but was OK once I had started the car. Third time similar, but then everything went wrong - immobilized, windows not working, indicators flashing. Eventually managed to get it started and back to the parking spot. Fuse out again.

    I am now about to remove the SCU and sent it to Technozen. I would be grateful for a few tips:
    - I should disconnect the battery first, according to the workshop manual. Should I leave it like that or reconnect whilst the SCU is missing?
    - is there a preferred sequence on re-inserting the SCU (battery disconnect??? alarm fuse in first or after????)

    I need to avoid triggering the alarm (or it triggering itself) - not only whilst I am working on the car, but also whilst the SCU is away. I park for free in a spot outside a near-neighbours house, so need to keep on good terms with them...

    Meantime, I noticed the under-bonnet light did not come on. That was fixed simply by replacing the switch mounting screw - presumably not earthing through the old screw.
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