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  • TaffMGF created a new forum post in For Sale
    Registration number K190 MGF for sale
    on retention certificate
    £250 ono
    The plates in the picture can be included if like, the front one is a bit bug-splattered :-)
    cheers, Taff

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  • TaffMGF thanked the user SteveFMk1 in the forum post, Poor/non start and a cold misfire/hesitation
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  • TaffMGF thanked the user Cobber in the forum post, Poor/non start and a cold misfire/hesitation
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  • TaffMGF created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Hello all and a HNY to you all.

    My '96 VVC has started to play up. It can be extremely reluctant to start, to the point of turning over until the starter solenoid starts clicking. When it does start, there is usually a misfire and hesitancy/flat-spot until the engine is up to working temperature.

    I have had this once before; the battery went flat so i called out recovery. He hooked it up via jump leads to his truck and almost forced it into life. He suggested the fuel filter, which i changed the following weekend (that would have been 6 months ago).

    The car has been outside all over the festive period, under a tarp, and this does have the feel of a weather-related issue. It started fine the other day when it was sunny and then 24 hours later in a downpour, it wouldn't start at all.

    Searches and google don't seem to point to a single issue, it could be something prosaic as plugs, an inlet manifold gasket or even as simple as a pipe off the manifold pressure sensor.

    I will push the car into the workshop at the weekend, but in the meantime, any hints of were to have a look?

    Thanks, Taff
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  • TaffMGF created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    Morning all, I hope the holiday season is going well for you.

    The brake lights were permenantly on my car. It is a 1996 VVC, and it has the black plastic, ratchet-type of switch. I have had this issue before, a few times, most recently when my MoT tester (who is a big lad) clipped the brake pedal with his size 11's while getting out of the car on test and caused the usual problem. I have reset the switch a half dozen times in the eight years I have had the car; while it's not exactly fun bending yourself to get in there, it's not the end of the world.

    However, last week the brake lights came on again. Resetting the switch made no difference, and I figured that at 26 years old, the original one was probably FUBAR and due replacement. My local motor factor sourced a new one, which I duly fitted, and the brake lights were still on.

    So I reset it a few times, with no change. Then refitted the old one, no change, then fitted the new one back on again, still no change.

    I read up on the switch again, in case I had forgotten something, but no, the switch is reset by drawing/pulling the plunger out, then re-fitted while holding the brake pedal down . So i did that again and the brakes ights are still on.

    So I started playing with it all, and quickly discovered that by lifting the pedal slightly (towards the driver), the brake lights go out. I thought this was a no-no, given the switch design and the way it is supposed to work?

    Anyway, bodge time as I needed the car to get to work. it currently has a bungee doing "additional return spring" duty which is working fine, and the brake lights are only on when I brake. The brakes themselves feel fine, and I can't see a missing or slack spring anywhere on the pedal assembly.

    Am I missing something basic?
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  • Minimax, please excuse the thread hijack.

    Did you buy a pump for the suspension or build your own?
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  • I got it back together again, which was fun. Getting the new 'stat in was easy enough, lining up it's mounting bolt was fiddly but doable.
    getting in the coolant pipe bracket bolt on the passenger end of the engine? Horrible task, just couldn't get it lined up. I was concious of it being a thread cut into aluminium as well and i really didn't want to damage it.
    After two hours of failing to get the bolt started, I gave up, measured up and then drilled a hole in the back wall of the boot, 30mm diameter so I could feed a 12" extension bar through. The bolt went in first time. I accept that it's not ideal to go drilling random holes in your car but I really didn't want to take the manifold off



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  • I’ve got the thermostat housing off. Funny job, only three screws and a couple of hose clamps but it’s fiddly. Small, strong hands would be an advantage, unlike my flipping great spades. Oh well.

    The housing itself had snapped off its inlet at the water pump end



    You can probably figure out which is mine and which is the library picture.

    My local factors couldn’t find one listed (that’s his code for ‘I’m busy’) so I’ve ordered one off eBay, along with a couple of new hose clamps and some OAT. Reassembly next week, then!
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  • Is it me , or is that hose clamp broken below the red arrow in photo 2?


    No, it's the angle of the picture. Although I did just leg it down there to check.
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  • TaffMGF created a new forum post in MGF/TF Pitstop
    hello all,

    My '96 VVC has passed its MoT again with only minimal issues, and having had a reasonable clean overall bill of health, I was in two minds about doing something with the spheres. My ride isn't all it should be, it's a little bangy and crashy (excuse the technical terms). The ride height is k (i had it pumped up last summer) but some in-depth research leads me to the conclusion that my spheres may have deteriorated to the point that just pumping them up isn't doing anything anymore.

    As ever, there are several very good guides on changing the actual spheres themselves, so that holds no fear for me. My question is:-

    Assuming that i have successfully replaced all four spheres, my car would then be up on stands with an "empty" suspension system. How do I get it pumped up at home? Or even just pumped up enough for the 10 mile trip to my local specialist who has the pump?

    Apologies if this a is a daft question but I can't seem to find the answer for this bit!

    thanks in advance

    Taff
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