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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151143

Evening all.
For a change I'm actually going to ask a technical engine related question B)

I'm thinking about changing the cam belt, tensioner and water pump (as well as a general all round service), but due to the limited access was wondering if I should call someone in to do this? I'm not useless with the spanners and am quite able to follow instructions and do a good job, I'm just concerned that it could prove problematic due to access.
Don't get me wrong it's not the filters and plugs side of it, just the cam belt, tensioner and pump.
Is it a straight forward job to do? Or is it best left to the experts?
I'm thinking one of the recommended mobile mechanics, if anyone knows of one that covers South Lincolnshire?
Also, if I did use a mechanic, would it be prudent for me to obtain the parts (genuine MG) or let them supply them?

Thanks in advance for any (constructive) input :P
Dave
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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151145

I bought all the parts from College Motors (http://www.rovermgspecialist.co.uk/MGTF-car-parts/MGTF-new-parts?product_id=344) plus a genuine alternator belt and they then sat in my garage for nearly a year while I worked-up the enthusiasm to do the job. In then end I got a garage I trust to do the job. They were more than happy to use my parts. Even they struggled a bit removing the alternator. While I like to work on the car myself, there are some jobs that without a nice large and well lit garage are probably better done by a professional if you can find one that you like and can afford the bill.

I've no idea if these guys are OK but they are down your way: http://coningsbymgfcentre.vpweb.co.uk/

Richard
1.8i Mk2 Solar Red, 16 inch square spoke wheels, MGFMania hood with zip-in glass rear window, DRLs, Kmaps ECU, Pipercross panel air filter, MGOC Supersports back box & some cockpit bling
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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151147

Try Russell Walsh MG ROVER SOLUTIONS, he travels everywhere and i think is the best, he only uses genuine parts too, but would have no problem if you supplied.

I thought my engine had an automatic tensioner & wider belt (according to the engine number) turned out, MGR records are wrong again!!! it had a 23mm belt and manual tensioner, Russell bought my Gates kit and supplied the correct one.

He did have a problem getting the crank pulley undone, because it is so tight!!!! impact gun wouldn't touch it, sent me away to make more coffee and it was ''off' when I got back - I know what he did :omg: but he didn't want me to see the treatment.

I also replaced the bolts in the cam wheels with the upgraded Mike Satur kit ( £12 is a small price to pay to stop a cam bolt shearing)
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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151163

You should never be put off by people who say these cars should be left to garages because of access...........you just have to do your homework..............is it a vvc engine?...........has it auto or manual tensioner?..............has your alternator adjuster siezed solid?...........have you got plenty of time on your hands..................using mine for pleasure purposes and not comuting to work meant i could relax more on the job...........Watching youtube videos helps but when doing it yourself can often prove very different ........plus i have a workshop manual.......print the needed pages and take them to the mancave......yes the engines onyoutube are on a bench and not exactly in a f or tf...........i studied youtube videos several times...until the general idea was in my mind..........the timing tools were then purchased.......blimey i thought has the toolman past them over the counter.......well the cam locking tool was peanuts £4........the crank locking tool £25....both rear wheels removed and axle stands applied..disconnect the battery as in my case the crank locking tool was one which required unbolting the starter and the tool using starter holes to bolt tool ........ the tooth locked the flywheel.....there are others that lock the flywheel in other areas...,front wheels chocked.........plastic shield was removed revealing crank pulley{damper}.....accidentally breaking the clips.....price for these check ebay.ther are 3......removing the alternator belt.....i then tackled cracking off the pulley bolt with the crank tool locked..........once i determined the crank pulley bolt was loose i removed the engine cover and then the top timing cover.....i then released my crank lock and positioned the two crank pulleys.....so the two arrows allined with each other.....the left gear saying exhaust and pointing towards the exhaust side of engine........the right gear saying inlet pointing to the inlet side of the engine......with the two gearmarks allighned fit cam locking tool.........and at this point i locked in the crank and removed pulley.....do not undo the crank pulley using camlock .......removed the bottom timing cover reveals the crank gear....it has two dots which allighn to arrow on oilpump.......taking the weight of the engine with a trolley jack i removed the bolts securing the top engine mount to the bottom mount.....lowering engine enough to feed belt out between the mounts.......and being careful not to knock cam locking tool has engine is lowerd.after slackening tensioner the belt was removed........and new belt fitted........this was awkward has the belt is fed from crank keeping belt taught on the right side going anti clockwise arround gears plenty of tension by hand to assure belt is correctly fitted........the belt kept coming off the teeth so using some folded up cardboard pegd the belt to keep it in position in at least 4 different places......allowing me to concentrate on feeding the belt back on gears water pump and tensioner....cardboard pegs removed......the cambelt automatic tensioner was adjusted until the wire pointer allighned up central between its two marks.......keeping tension on allen key torque up the bolt ........useing new bolt recomended as it as abead of loctite.......see other forum thread camshaft locking bolt.........new tensioner was fitted in this build...........read manual on all aspects of this procedure if overtightning o auto tensioner occurs manual recomends fully slackening off the tensioner and retensioning again,,until position is reached without going past marks..........turn the engine twice to check all timing marks after removing loking tools ........i checked and checked mine again.......bottom case fitted and crank damper fitted and torqed....reverse procedure is then put into effect............some pointers to check during rebuild are the crank gear remove and check keyway for any signs of wear.........and the crank pulley as a ruuber ring to the centre this acts as a damper and it is two parts bonded to a rubber ring....this ring can swell and start to pop out...distorting the pulley......replace if nessasary.note this crankpulley has a small chisel mark for checking allignment against marks on case........take care to replace rubber seals on plastic timing cases,,,,,,,,,,,,,,turning the key reminded me of clint eastwood in dirty harry..............but in my mind he was saying..........ru nervous punk.....well r yer...........dam bloody right i was the ke was turned and she run like a dream.... :beer: ..........see other threads for waterpump fitting........please note im not responsible for any inaccuracies in this posting and it is meant has a good will gesture to let you know what it may intail..........my alternator tensioner was siezed........can be drilled but see this forum for a alternative.....there are other issues to concider about this repair and that is the camgear bolts can be upgraded as these have been known to shear.....................goodluck.....i now go around in the mg with more of a bond........yes garages eat your heart out.............. :clap:
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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151179

I was not sure about doing this job either but like bluestreak I did my homework, printed and took my time. Access was not easy but a little mirror helped a lot. Also the printed diagrams helped me work out where the bolts etc should be. A magnet on a stick was well used to pick up dropped bolts. It all worked out OK in the end. With the confidence from doing that I later did a head gasket with a slow and steady attitude and that MGF is still purring. :woohoo: Saved a lot of money and gained a sense of achievement. :broon:
If you decide to do it then you will get help here if needed. :yesnod:
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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151252

Thanks guys for all of your input, it's fully appreciated. I'll have to weigh up the pros and cons for and against doing it myself, main reason is that it's my daily driver so would have to take the day off work anyway, so I'll see/
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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151280

yes there are drawbacks when tackling a job such as this if you need the car for work,,,,,,its not fun with a time limit,,,,,,there must be a lot of people out there wondering how there cambelt is doing has it thrashes around that timing case at high speeds.......thinking oh christmas is aproaching,ill leave it till after....I had a renault laguna cambelt replaced by a local man......i.drove the renault to is unit.......on the way i thought i would give it some throttle to get rid of a bit of soot out of exhaust....as it was a diesel...............after changing the belt he showed me the old one........it was just about to snap.................so when the mg came along the cambelt kept coming up in every thought............but its not a technical job just having a check of it .............get that engine cover off...........and remove the top part of the timing case..........if you access front engine pulley and turn the engine from the large pulley nut inspect the belt for cracks.........but this is only a short term piece of mind........i did this on a friday evening ......and then put it back togrther in the morning........just to get rid of a niggling in my mind while i was gathering info for the big day............some people sell cars saying cambelt new but not always a mension of that all important tensioner...............
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Cam Belt/Tensioner/Water Pump changing question 9 years 5 months ago #151334

I have come across the same issue with the tensioner not matching up to MGR records, all vvcs have a manual tensioner and some early mpi engines also have a manual tensioner. I have worked on 1995 1996 engines which had mpi heads originally with manual tensioners,but at some point the head as been changed for a later automatic tensioner mpi head with the thinner threaded hole for automatic tensioner.
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Last edit: Post by GT MG SPARES LTD. Reason: spelling again
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