Topic

My TF has failed its MOT on excess play in the front upper suspension arm joint. I have only had it a few weeks and have been quoted an amount that means scrapping the car as its more than it's worth. I read some forum advice that says taking down the subframe, as I have been quoted, is not necessary and the replacement is not too big a job. I don't have the tools or space to do the work and wondered optimistically if there was anyone who was keen/kind enough to do such a job - I guess someone who has already done it and knows how without too much pain? I would be happy to pay someone to save the car from scrapping as I've already grown stupidly fond of it! I'm in Central London but would travel to save the car!

Do you mean the top radius arm shaft and needle roller bearings?

I have done a couple of them but always dropped the frame. If you can get the crash cans out when the front bumper is off you should be able to remove the retaining plate and the the shaft should come out,even if you just drop one side of the subframe; anyone tried it?

Brian.

Have you got the exact failure sheet scanned? Is it the arm bearing or the top ball joint?

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Thank you - I have only had it read to me - the sheet is not precise but the garage seems to think it is the subframe side rather than the hub side - which I assume to be the reason for only seeing dropping the subframe as the only solution.

Ok. Must be needle roller bearings then.

Get a second opinion and get them to show you exactly what it is this will clear any confusion and you will then be better informed as to what is required and whether you wish to tackle it or have it done. Right now your groping around in the dark and at the mercy of those who may be out to make more money from you than is really called for.

Hi Adam - Thank you - as I said I can't presently do it myself but if any member has done the job and would be willing to repeat the experience on my car I would be happy to pay them. I can't afford what the garage is asking and my only other option is to scrap it - it's on their ramp having failed the MOT so its urgent as I have to reclaim Tuesday next, April 22nd. It doesn't need to be done by then, only for me to know I have the option, and I'd be more than grateful for practical help!

Hi, as Plezier says get them to SHOW you the part that they think is no good. The needle roller bearings have a grease nipple and needs to be pumped full of grease - it's possible this would solve the issue temporarily if not permanently. The problem you have is that the garage would never admit this now as then they would look like rip-off merchants!

The advice of a second opinion is sound - I'd be happy to pump the bearings with grease before you take it to somewhere else. I am not far from Greenwich if that helps?

Thanks again Adam. I have forwarded a link to the garage concerned (Rover MG specialists) on doing the job without taking down the subframe and waiting for their response. I will probably pick up the car Tuesday and if they don't grease the nipples your offer would be most helpful - if Tuesday evening was a possibility for you? The mechanic says the state of the upper arm is dangerous but I will only see it on Tuesday. If I could do the job myself I would but as that's out I need to find some solution to enable me to keep the car by getting its MOT. If you know anyone that has done the job - from what I read it's removing the bearings that needs a special tool - I could try to find someone who might consider doing the job for/with me. Happy to act as unskilled assistant, but time is limited as the MOT runs out May 4th.

If it's not raining on Tuesday yep that would be fine!

If it was me I would get a good second hand one rather than replace the bearings - as it is quite rare for them to fail so badly unless they have almost never been greased. In fact I may even have one in the shed (I did strip an N Reg F a few years ago!).

To be honest (not sure if anyone else thinks this) but even if the bearings had seized and ground up it is not 'dangerous' so to speak and that arm cannot go anywhere - it has a HUGE BOLT right through it and the subframe. OK the suspension geometry would be off and it would sound dreadful and creaky, but in my humble opinion not dangerous so to speak.

Anyway let me know.

Well Peter popped round and I had a look at the dodgy upper arm. Initially it felt like the track rod end was wobbling however it soon became apparent that the top arm had more movement than I had EVER felt in a needle roller bearing!

I suspect one of a couple of options:

1. The bearings have given up so badly that they no longer hold the bolt (unlikely)
2. The bearings are missing (or some or them) and allowing the bolt to move (possible)
3. The plate that the bolt goes through (kind of oval shaped plate) is missing allowing the bolt to move around (possible)

So over the next week or so we are going to have a proper look. The car has has a replacement sub-frame and a few front panels, likely due to a bump at some point, and so it's possible that the top arm was botched at the same time. Hopefully it will be a quick fix, and worst case I have a spare arm in the shed to pop on. Question is - just to check - does the F top arm fit a TF? I think they are the same at the front!

All in all it's a pretty nice TF, lovely seats in Grenadine leather, and Team Dynamics 17" wheels.

adamelphick wrote: wrote:

Well Peter popped round and I had a look at the dodgy upper arm. Initially it felt like the track rod end was wobbling however it soon became apparent that the top arm had more movement than I had EVER felt in a needle roller bearing!

I suspect one of a couple of options:

1. The bearings have given up so badly that they no longer hold the bolt (unlikely)
2. The bearings are missing (or some or them) and allowing the bolt to move (possible)
3. The plate that the bolt goes through (kind of oval shaped plate) is missing allowing the bolt to move around (possible)

So over the next week or so we are going to have a proper look. The car has has a replacement sub-frame and a few front panels, likely due to a bump at some point, and so it's possible that the top arm was botched at the same time. Hopefully it will be a quick fix, and worst case I have a spare arm in the shed to pop on. Question is - just to check - does the F top arm fit a TF? I think they are the same at the front!

Unfortunately the top radius arms are quite different, however the pivot shaft and needle roller bearings (or service kit) are the same.